94 GXE altima heat related problem code 43 - Altima Forums.net - The Nissan Altima Enthusiast Talk and Discussion Forums

mensagero4u · 12-09-2009

I have a Nissan Altima1994 GXE 2.4 liter Automatic and I'm having some problems with my car. The problem is that the something is messed up and I don't know what it is. I install new distributor, new Knock sensor, new TPS, new spark plugs and new ECU.
Here is the problem; the car runs perfect in the morning wile is cold.
After reaching normal temperature I park the car for five minutes and that’s when the problem starts.
The car runs fine after getting on 2nd gear but ones you get to full stop the car runs like trash.
I read the code on the ECU and is giving me a code 43 > 3 short flash and 4 fast flash after TPS, I did change angle but at the center of the TPS is were best work.
Every time I reset the ECU the code 43 is back.
Timing is perfect, the distributor or connections are clean and I am aware of the oil distributor problems as well of the one with the knock sensor but those parts are new clean and working fine wile is cold.
I think is something related to a temperature,sensors or injectors leaking but i am not sure.

I realy don’t know what else it could be.

I can afford to take it to the mechanic at this point because I spend the money in all this new parts.

I am also unemployed trying to get my car fix to go and look for another.
I save lot of money buying from ebay, i spend 140 total.
takes time but is OK to save around 400$ just in parts

Can anyone please help me out I'm out of hope, very frustrated and desperate for HELP!
Thank you in advance, Luis.
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mensagero4u · 12-10-2009

Today I drove the car for about 2 miles wile it was cold and it runs perfect, after my last stop the car start stumble and giving all type of problems.
Yesterday I spray some carb cleaner on my throttle and clean lot of wire connections.
I don’t know why code 43 comes back since the car runs well wile is cold.
I may be reading the code wrong, 3 slow red flashes fallowed by 4 faster =43 TPS right?
My TPS and Knock sensor are new and well connected.
Right now I am only hope for some one help on this problem, is there any one out there ever been on the same situation before.

mensagero4u · 12-10-2009

Ok I just found something, one of my coolant or temperature sensors are bad and is the one at the top the red one with two pins.
That one is the one signal the ECU and at the same time turns on and off the radiator fan the other one is for the instrument panel.
I notice my car was getting hot but not blowing fans; I took the plug out and start working.
I must say the code 43 for now is there, after I’ll

replace the sensor I will reset the ECU and see what happen.
I also have to tell you that if you unplug the sensor and run the car it will give you a code 31 ECM fault but don’t worry is just the sensor ,ones you plug it back and clear the code I’ll disappear.
I will replace it and keep you update about what’s going on.

mensagero4u · 12-10-2009

How to read codes on you 1994 Nissan Altima
next to the gas pedal is a small kick panel. remove this kick panel and behind it you will see the ecu. theres a small screw there that you will need a small screwdriver turn. with the ignition on but the car NOT running, turn the screw all the way clockwise. be gentle though and dont force it. once you turn it all the way, wait a second and turn it back the other way - all the way. the little red led will start to flash. count the short flashes and long flashes. the short flashes will be your 2nd number in your code. the long flash will be will be the 1rs number in your code.

For example 3 long flushes + 4 short flashes =43
55=everything is OK
Be sure to write these down. there will be a pause between codes and once they have all been displayed, the codes will start over. once this happens, and you have all of your codes written down, then turn the screw once again completely clockwise and then turn it back. the led should glow constantly. turn the ignition off and replace the kick panel. The codes are now reset and if you check back you will have a code 55.

Here is the list of codes you may come across.

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

mensagero4u · 12-11-2009

This problem is driving me crazy, I just replaced today the coolant sensor but that wasn’t the problem.
Tomorrow I’ll try something I just found on a different post that makes sense and is related to what I am going trough.
I’ll try resetting my ECM to erase my code 43 and let the computer Know my driving habits.

ECU Resetting Procedures

ENGINE COLD
1-Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .

Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
WAIT over 10 seconds before this next step.

2-Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .

Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
Turn ignition switch “ON”. WAIT EXACTLY ONE SECOND SHARP. Turn ignition switch “OFF”
THEN wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. - Very hard to hear anything at all. Just believe this is happening by faith. Now, here's the big change

Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.AND RIDE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES, this will make for correct operating temperatures to happen within the engine for the following steps. Warming your car in the garage in the morning apparently does not cut it.

Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.

Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
Fully depress the accelerator pedal. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
Wait 7 seconds
Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns off or stays on.
Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. Start engine and let it idle. THE ENGINE MUST BE STARTED WITHIN THE 3 SECONDS AFTER IT STOPS BLINKING, THATS HOW THIS LIGHT GOES OFF. THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT STATE THIS, BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM WHERE THE ENGINE LINE ON-OFF IS, IT CLEARLY SHOWS YOU SHOULD TURN IT ON WITHIN THESE THREE SECONDS. This is where your engine will start to learn the correct idle settings

Wait 20 seconds.
Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

I also found this one too!

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

mensagero4u · 12-13-2009

Today I just found something new and I think is the key to my problems (a bad injector)
One of them is not working and the resistance is different from the others, I can tell by unplugging the injector cable and noticing not RPM change at all on that particular cylinder.

I'm coming to the conclusion that the knock sensor is detecting "knock". Once it detects something, it kicks in and tells the ECU to retard the timing and to change my idle.

After a few hours the ECU start listening for noise or knack and ones is clear the ECU start the process of bringing back all the right parameters.

I also believe ECU from late models like 94 don’t read injector misfire and give you TPS as problem on fuel mix.

That is my theory right now, ones I change the injector I’ll keep you update.
Is not just that I refuse to take it to the mechanic, it is I don’t have the money to do it!

mensagero4u · 12-14-2009

I must tell you this has been for me more than a personal challenge.
I went to pet boys today to check for additional codes to see were my problem was coming, but they told me that the machine couldn’t communicate with my car.
I went home and tock my new meter and run some test until I found my problem.
I am happy because finally got my code 43 off, the problem bad installation of my TPS.
I purchase this TPS at EBay but at that time didn’t have a meter to check the installation and the two channels didn’t have room to move forward or to advance.
They are manufactured on Italy and I have to cut the channels with a wire cuter and finally I reach the proper position or angle, ones I did it finally got my throttle fully open position reading.
I replace my bad injector 25$ and my problem with my engine is gone, now I am code free but I have some more to do.
Now my transmission is overheating, isn’t cooling enough and having some problems only when is hot.
I will install a new oil cooler from the local auto part 35.00$ and I hope that will be the end of my nightmare.
I never said that I purchase this car for only 300.00$ and I have spend less than that on repairs.
If everything goes well I will be very happy and my life can go back to normal.
I hope my experience help others on the future going trough the same situation, my advice is to make from you difficulties you inspiration and everything will be fine.
For now I am very happy that today I finally burn some tires on the road today until got my transmission hot.

mensagero4u · 12-18-2009

Today I am coming to say goodbye, I have finally fix all my problems with my car.
I start this post with a code 43 and I went trough all the problems I find during this journey, the last thing it happens to my car it was a problem with my transmission the one I fix going to the yard and pulling one for 40$, the problem with mine it was the solenoid wire wasn’t soldered and when it gets hot send that information to the computer and the computer activate some safety switch to protect the transmission.
The car was running fine wile it was cold but ones the wire get hot stay on 3rd gear all the time and the computer retards you timing making you car run like crap.
Any way I am glad I finally make it trough and with a happy ending, as I say the car only cost me 300$ and I spend less than that to fix it.
The owner new the car had that problem but sold it to me as it was only the ECM, it took me some time and effort but at the end I have a recession proof car and I love it.
Ones more I hope some one out there going to the same can use my experiences as guide to a happy end.
Next week is time for looking for a new job, finally ``I HAVE A NICE CAR” J

DJ · 12-18-2009

Sweet! I'm glad you got it fixed. I've heard of the code 43 problem with Altima's but wasn't quite sure what it was all about.

mensagero4u · 12-18-2009

Hi DJ.
My code 43 was just the beginning of my journey I can say the tip of the iceberg.
As you can see the car looks very descent, have nice 18 in wells, power all, air condition, cobra alarm system pioneer stereo and a nice engine with only 112,000 miles.
It was hard for me to give up on it.
My problem with my TPS or code 43 start from a bad installation I made, the part it was an OEM from Italy that needs to be cut to make some room in order to reach the right position, I didn’t have the tools to test the installation and I came here for some answers.
Went to the flea market buy one meter for $6.00 and find out that I couldn’t reach the close position.
After that my code 43 was gone but the car wasn’t running right.
My car keeps doing the same, staying only on one gear after getting hot and cutting off at full stop.
Believe me it was a very depressing situation sometimes you have to wait 12 hour for the ECU to fully reset on himself, forget about anything else ones the ECU gets that transmission signal forget about the screw driver all you have is nothing but wait for next chance.
I find out I have a bad injector and a bad coolant sensor replaced but didn’t fix the problem.
I was about to think it was my catalytic converter but I check it and it was ok.
Check the MAF sensor with not luck; I add an additional oil cooler radiator until I find out about the famous solenoid valve.
They are very expensive almost $400.00 for something they know only a wire can make it fail, in my case the wire wasn’t even soldered at all from the factory.
The part cost me $40.00 on my local junk yard (you pull auto parts).
It is hard in this car because the ECU don’t give you the codes for something like that, you relay only on the local auto parts store that offer you that type of service but in my case pet boys fail with the excuse that their machine couldn’t communicate with my car like if my car speak French or Chinese.
I have learned a lesson with this car and I know it now from top to bottom, I love it and plan to keep it for a wile.
I am an industrial mechanic or millwright but right now I am unemployed, I couldn’t give me the luxury to take it to a mechanic so I have to use some of my skills, free time and some effort to make it happen but at the end I have a happy ending.
I find this site very helpful and I will recommend definitely to all my friends, I am now very, very happy and ready for the next miles.
Luis.

mensagero4u · 12-20-2009

Hi DJ I almost have bad news for you today but I found the problem and probably was that one on the first place.
I went out today and the car did exactly the same not as bad as before but same symptoms, the problem my power ground cable.
I toke it out from the chassis during repairs and forget to put it back, what a difference.
The car is shifting now as it should, I didn’t want to say good bye before mentioned this small detail to the people on this forum.