New , heating issues and fluctuatiing heat dial on 1995 Nissan Altima - Altima Forums.net - The Nissan Altima Enthusiast Talk and Discussion Forums

nyc09 · 12-14-2010

Hi earlier on i posted about back and forth fluctuating heat dial issues in my car.
well i was told it was the thermostat. i had it replaced with a new thermostat.

the fix seems to be a temporary solution to the problem.

i'm still having heating issues, and i need a quick solution now that winter is hear. and its like 15 degrees where i reside

problems/issues with my 1995.: when the car warms up and the Temperature dial hits about halfway. and i start driving most especially on the highway. the temperature dial starts going down all the way in the cold section and it stays there .

should i change the thermostat or is it the temperature control unit thats faulty.

Revlimit48 · 12-16-2011

First off sorry for bringing back an old thread.

I am having the same issue with my 93 GXE, it will warm up but as soon as I start driving the motor cools back off. I have changed the thermostat thinking it was stuck open but that didn't do anything. I replaced the radiator hoses and obviously the radiator and water pump are good because it is cooling back down and not overheating or leaking. Does anyone have any ideas. Thank you in advance!

Revlimit48 · 12-26-2011

Anyone have any ideas? I have bled the coolant, did a compression test (to check headgasket), a leakdown test, and a coolant pressure test everything was great. Less than 5 psi difference between all 4 cylinders and less than 1% difference on the leakdown. I have the problem "bandaided" for now with a piece of cardboard blocking most of the radiator. I left one fan open just incase it runs a little warm, but almost 200 miles without an issue yet. I just hate to have to rig it like that, I want to fix it right but can't think of anything else to try.

**Unclear_Motives** · 12-26-2011

What else happens? If I'm reading correctly, it seems like the needle goes to cold...but does anything else seem wrong?

Quote:

"...it's not about the parts-it's about the look and feel of the car as a whole" - Jason Whipple, Rotiform

Revlimit48 · 12-26-2011

Yes the needle goes to cold and the engine actually cools off also. I can let it warm up all the way and feel the valve cover and hoses and it feels like it should a warmed up engine lol. After I drive about a mile the needle goes to cold, I have gotten out and felt the hoses and engine again and it is cold as if it was only running for a minute or two. Other than the temp dropping the car runs fine, except the throwout bearing. It does kick in to high/cold idle but that is to be expected for a "cold" engine. I have taken the both hoses off of the heater core, one at a time for a few seconds, with the engine running and coolant flows in and out without any problems. I am honestly stumped, everythng I can think of would make the engine overheat not run cold. I amalso a newb to nissans and imports in general and have only had the car a little over a week so I am still getting used to it.

LuvACar · 01-01-2012

Might be time to take it to a mechanic. That happened on my 94 and it never recovered. I took a similar route that you did. It ended up being a problem with my whole coolant system.

steve491 · 01-07-2012

If the ECM thinks the car is cold (reading from temp sensor) then it's going into open loop and choking the car with gas. That will eventually foul the plugs. First thing to determine is the actual temperature of the engine. Use a laser temp gun on the head and especiually near where the thermostat is. If the engine is warm then the temp sensor is bad. If the engine is not up to temp then the new thermostat is bad.
Does the heater work OK? Meaning no air pockets.
Is your electric fan running all the time?

Revlimit48 · 01-07-2012

Yes the engine is actually running cold, after my drive home from work (about 35 minutes, the thermostat housing was 90* F and the hoses were about 80* F. That was on a 30* day, and 95% of 65mph+ highway. If I let it sit and warm up all the way everything is between 165* 175* except the hose coming from the water pump it was about 180*. If I let it sit for about 25 minutes total the fans kick on like they are supposed to. The thermostat is good I checked it before I put it in, by being suspended in a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer. Right at 170* it opened up. The car acts like it has WAY to big of a radiator in it. The heater works great when the engine is warm, but gets cooler as the engine cools off until the point it gets cold like you would expect from a cold engine.

I'm sorry for the jumbled response I am on my old phone and it is a a pita to post on.

steve491 · 01-08-2012

It has to be a thermostat issue. I hate to say it, but replace the thermostat again. It has to be sticking open to some degree if the engine won't stay at operating temp unless there is a bypass of some kind. Can't remember the exact coolant routes on my 95.
An engine should reach the proper operating temp within 5 minutes of driving or 2 miles and STAY there under normal driving conditions.
Good luck.

Revlimit48 · 01-08-2012

The thermostat that is in the car now is the second one I have put in, so I am pretty sure that isn't it. There is no bypass I know of. The coolant routing is the normal in and out on the radiator and the additional inlet to the block from the water pump.

It will be another week or two before I get a chance to mess with the cooling issue, the clutch went out a couple days ago. The clutch disk is literally in two pieces; the hub separated from the friction disk lol. The sad thing is that I have been babying it because I knew the clutch wasn't in that great of shape, and the cooling issue.

steve491 · 01-09-2012

OUCH. Now a clutch job. Maybe you. or the guy that does the clutch, can figure out the cooling issue. Good luck.
I have 3 cars and 2 drivers right now and even though 2 out of the 3 are nwer than 2005 it's still a chore to keep them all maintained. It seems like every other week I need an oil change, tire rotation or state inspection.

**mikejamesbyma** · 01-09-2012

Just a thought, but the OE thermostat is a 170 degree, maybe try a 195 degree to let it run hotter before it opens and cycles.

Revlimit48 · 01-10-2012

I am doing all the work on the car, I can't afford a mechanic. The clutch isn't that big of a deal but it's the first front wheel drive I have pulled the tranny out of so it's a learning experience lol. The hardest part is waiting on parts to come in. I bought the altima for good mpg, and to be able to put my kids in it if I have to. Then 2 days after I bought it the motor in my truck blew up cruisin down the highway to work, 300,000 mile 93 ford f-150. So now I have both of my vehicles down and have to drive the girlfriends car to work. It's just not a good couple months for me it seems like one thing after another.

Do you have a part number for the 195* thermostat? I can only find the 170*, a hotter thermostat may work. Thanks

**mikejamesbyma** · 01-10-2012

You can use a Stant 13968 which is a 180 degree, or you can use a Stant 13779 which is a 195.

Revlimit48 · 01-10-2012

Thanks for the info mike. I will try a 180* after I get my clutch put in. I'll let you know if that helps.