2.5S to 2.5SL interior wiring harness swap

It isn't one harness. For the seats it's three, Main, Body, and Engine Room. For the steering controls it's just Main, but you'll need a different head unit and possibly a new spiral cable. Be advised that the console and dashpad both need to be removed to replace the Main Harness. It isn't a small job.

You're probably better off with aftermarket for the seat-heat anyway. The problem with the harnesses is that Nissan doesn't specify which harnesses fit which equipment. It's likely that your only hope is to find a model with the equipment you want in the JY and get the number off the harness tag.

You definitely want the Main Harness. Trouble is, just for '05, Nissan EPC lists 18 different part numbers for Main Harnesses depending on the car's equipment.

Mains all have a 24010 prefix. Engine Harnesses are 24011, Engine Room Harnesses are 24012. Body Harnesses are usually 24014, but there's often more than one along with various sub-harnesses.

Given the location and color, I'd say it's probably for a tweeter speaker at the corner of the dash. If so, you should find one just like it at the other end.

Exactly where does it position when the harness is in place? Could be a glove box lamp or could be a sensor for the HVAC.

What year is the car, I'll pull up the harness diagram and see what I can find out.

JoeV2 said:

Now my question is will i have to change the ECU now?

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If that's for the HVAC controls, then the harness must be for Auto A/C. You might need to change the whole HVAC.

JoeV2 said:

Where did you get the schematic from?

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PM me, that isn't for public consumption.

There's no separate harness for the wheel, you pick the wires up where the Main Harness enters the spiral cable (which you'll probably need to change). If I recall correctly the bag and non-bag connectors will be keyed side-by-side at the spiral, yellow connector for the bag and gray for the other stuff.

The White/Yellow is probably for the trunk release Valet Switch in the glove box. For the heated seats, you need to use a DPDT switch (or two SPDT relays) and not a single relay. To get high-low, the seat heater elements get their 12V power in parallel for high, in series for low. Hit the "Seat" section of the SM for how they wire up, page SE-13.

Yep, for high-only you want ground to 1 and 3 and power on 2 for each seat.

JoeV2 said:

airbag code b1054/b1049 and no horn which means i need to replace this clock spring as well i assume

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Yep. Those are both driver's bag codes, so a mismatched clockspring is a good assumption.

If you can get the VIN for the harness donor, that's the easiest way to get the right part. If you can't then it's a guessing game.

JoeV2 said:

Never mind was the 15amp fuse under the hood thankfully 😅

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It's probably the wrong switch. Chances are an SL had full Auto on both front windows, an S would probably have it for driver only. With Auto on the passenger side, there's a LAN link between the two switches. You probably won't get it to work right without changing out the passenger switch, and maybe the Master switch as well.

Then it can't be the right SL switch. There's no direct connection between the driver and passenger switches on a full Auto like there is with driver-only. The driver-only setup uses an on-on-on switch where the middle "on" provides ground to the slave switch. That allows both "dumb" switches to control the same motor. With full Auto the only connection is the LAN, an extension of the bit-bang serial bus that connects the Master to the BCM. The BCM and Master can both tell the passenger switch what to do, but without serial instructions it won't even power up. You're getting nothing from the S switch because it has no ground via the SL harness, but you may still get nothing even with the right switch because the S Master may not know how to talk to it.

Trying to swap wires is probably a vain exercise. You need to get the switches that originally fit whatever VIN that SL harness came out of, but without the VIN I have no idea whether that's even doable. DPIC might be able to cross reference it if you visit the dealership with the harness part number in hand and explain the situation. Contacting DPIC usually takes a day or two to get a response, but they have access to builder and vendor databases that dealers can't access.

Nissan doesn't sell any pin pigtails over the counter, we only get them with harness repair kits. Your best bet is a trip to the JY for a matching connector or a different one with the same pins.