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2.5S to 2.5SL interior wiring harness swap

3217 Views 158 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  markismail, 
JoeV2
Does anyone know if I would be able to swap the wiring harness for my 2.5S with a harness from a 2.5SL or even a 3.5SL to incorporate the use of the heated seats, and steering wheel controls, and any other features?

I'm not sure exactly which wiring harness I would have to purchase but I already have my hands on the harness for the heated seats and have my eyes on the steering wheel with volume controls. I'm just not sure what harnesses i would need or if I need to swap out the fuse box for the heated / power seats also.
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VStar650CL
JoeV2 said:
Where did you get the schematic from?
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PM me, that isn't for public consumption.
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JoeV2
Alright now I know i've seen this harness before for the audio connectors by metra but is there a connector harness for the steering wheel controls connector? I'm trying to use the axess SWC-1 and in the docs it's saying I need to tap into the 16 pin connector harness but I can't seem to find a harness for that connector so I don't have to tap into the factory wiring. All the harnesses I come across are only for the 2 front and rear speakers from what I can tell but I know there is a third one if anyone knows where I can purchase one that'd be great!
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VStar650CL
There's no separate harness for the wheel, you pick the wires up where the Main Harness enters the spiral cable (which you'll probably need to change). If I recall correctly the bag and non-bag connectors will be keyed side-by-side at the spiral, yellow connector for the bag and gray for the other stuff.
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JoeV2
2
So this is where I’m at. I’ve been sick this whole week so not much was done but i have two new wires with this new harness that I’m not sure what they do. One still being that brown connector near the ECM and this white / yellow connector that seems to to the same way as the HVAC wire
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Trunk Motor vehicle


Ive also noticed that the wiring that goes to the driver side a pillar is different because the base model Altima has no Sun roof i assume.

I’m however going to try and wire up the heated seats into the car since I’m already trying to add in power the driver seat and was curious which wire is the trigger for the heated seats on the switches so i can wire them into a relay. I’m pretty sure it’s the grey / blue and grey / red wires that i can use as the trigger but wanted a second opinion
Electrical wiring Gas Cable Wire Electric blue
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VStar650CL
The White/Yellow is probably for the trunk release Valet Switch in the glove box. For the heated seats, you need to use a DPDT switch (or two SPDT relays) and not a single relay. To get high-low, the seat heater elements get their 12V power in parallel for high, in series for low. Hit the "Seat" section of the SM for how they wire up, page SE-13.
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JoeV2
VStar650CL said:
The White/Yellow is probably for the trunk release Valet Switch in the glove box. For the heated seats, you need to use a DPDT switch (or two SPDT relays) and not a single relay. To get high-low, the seat heater elements get their 12V power in parallel for high, in series for low. Hit the "Seat" section of the SM for how they wire up, page SE-13.
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Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Diagram

I didn't realize there was a high and low setting but I'm going to just wire up the high setting and call it done since I don't feel like running all that extra wiring since it won't really be used that often. but thanks for the heads up. and now I'm going to be using the red / grey wire on left and blue / grey on the passenger side
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VStar650CL
Yep, for high-only you want ground to 1 and 3 and power on 2 for each seat.
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JoeV2
VStar650CL said:
Yep, for high-only you want ground to 1 and 3 and power on 2 for each seat.
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So I tested the harness out and this harness isn’t sending power to the switches so I’m just not gonna attempt to add heated seats because of the amount of wiring that’d be involved. However i did get my entire dash back together now but unfortunately have an airbag code b1054/b1049 and no horn which means i need to replace this clock spring as well i assume.
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VStar650CL
JoeV2 said:
airbag code b1054/b1049 and no horn which means i need to replace this clock spring as well i assume
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Yep. Those are both driver's bag codes, so a mismatched clockspring is a good assumption.
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JoeV2
VStar650CL said:
Yep. Those are both driver's bag codes, so a mismatched clockspring is a good assumption.
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Is there a specific one that I have to swap out? Like a difference between 2.5s and 2.5SL? I think there are multiple clock springs from different makes that would fit so I'm not sure
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VStar650CL
If you can get the VIN for the harness donor, that's the easiest way to get the right part. If you can't then it's a guessing game.
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JoeV2
VStar650CL said:
If you can get the VIN for the harness donor, that's the easiest way to get the right part. If you can't then it's a guessing game.
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Going to get the same clock spring from the donor by next week so everything should match up then hopefully. I just noticed that the radio is not getting any power from either the ignition or battery could that be a different issue or is there something else related to the harness?
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JoeV2
JoeV2 said:
Going to get the same clock spring from the donor by next week so everything should match up then hopefully. I just noticed that the radio is not getting any power from either the ignition or battery could that be a different issue or is there something else related to the harness?
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Never mind was the 15amp fuse under the hood thankfully 😅
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VStar650CL
JoeV2 said:
Never mind was the 15amp fuse under the hood thankfully 😅
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(y) :)
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S
JoeV2 said:
Does anyone know if I would be able to swap the wiring harness for my 2.5S with a harness from a 2.5SL or even a 3.5SL to incorporate the use of the heated seats, and steering wheel controls, and any other features?
I'm not sure exactly which wiring harness I would have to purchase but I already have my hands on the harness for the heated seats and have my eyes on the steering wheel with volume controls. I'm just not sure what harnesses i would need or if I need to swap out the fuse box for the heated / power seats also.
Click to expand...
For the steering controls it's just Main, but you'll need a different head unit and possibly a new spiral cable.
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JoeV2
stallenarman_7 said:
For the steering controls it's just Main, but you'll need a different head unit and possibly a new spiral cable.
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I just got the new spiral cable and going to install it in the morning and hopefully, all of that works out Now I have no power to the passenger window 🙃 Nissan somehow managed to use the same body harness connectors for the front door harness but different wiring configuration for the switches. I'm going to look into maybe being able to re-pin the current connector in the same configuration that the switches call for and hope for the best. Trouble now is figuring out what wires to change for the new switch
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VStar650CL
It's probably the wrong switch. Chances are an SL had full Auto on both front windows, an S would probably have it for driver only. With Auto on the passenger side, there's a LAN link between the two switches. You probably won't get it to work right without changing out the passenger switch, and maybe the Master switch as well.
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JoeV2
VStar650CL said:
It's probably the wrong switch. Chances are an SL had full Auto on both front windows, an S would probably have it for driver only. With Auto on the passenger side, there's a LAN link between the two switches. You probably won't get it to work right without changing out the passenger switch, and maybe the Master switch as well.
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I'll get some pics tomorrow, The S switch with only driver auto fit but didn't allow me to lower the passenger at all or lock the doors and now the SL switch I got from the donor won't fit into the door harness. I just can't believe that there are this many differences that I didn't account for but I'll get it figured out.
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VStar650CL
Then it can't be the right SL switch. There's no direct connection between the driver and passenger switches on a full Auto like there is with driver-only. The driver-only setup uses an on-on-on switch where the middle "on" provides ground to the slave switch. That allows both "dumb" switches to control the same motor. With full Auto the only connection is the LAN, an extension of the bit-bang serial bus that connects the Master to the BCM. The BCM and Master can both tell the passenger switch what to do, but without serial instructions it won't even power up. You're getting nothing from the S switch because it has no ground via the SL harness, but you may still get nothing even with the right switch because the S Master may not know how to talk to it.
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JoeV2
VStar650CL said:
Then it can't be the right SL switch. There's no direct connection between the driver and passenger switches on a full Auto like there is with driver-only. The driver-only setup uses an on-on-on switch where the middle "on" provides ground to the slave switch. That allows both "dumb" switches to control the same motor. With full Auto the only connection is the LAN, an extension of the bit-bang serial bus that connects the Master to the BCM. The BCM and Master can both tell the passenger switch what to do, but without serial instructions it won't even power up. You're getting nothing from the S switch because it has no ground via the SL harness, but you may still get nothing even with the right switch because the S Master may not know how to talk to it.
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Sleeve Gadget Material property Gas Font

The SL switch i purchased is the one on the right with the wire plugged in. On the left is my original switch with no auto passenger, I’m not sure which pins do what exactly or if i could even manage to swap wires around for this harness because it looks like I’m missing a few
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