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2008 Nissan Altima S 2.5L
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled into my driveway the other day & as soon as I pulled in
the car started making a clicking noise (more of a flapping sound)
and I turned the car off & it wouldn't start again. The engine was not knocking or running rough at all & the noise didn't sound like it was in the engine block, but in the front end somewhere. It literally started making the noise after driving fine & right as I pulled in my driveway and stopped.
It won't turn on at all now & that started this current trouble shooting adventure.
The first thing I tried was the easiest thing, the battery.
It was bad, but not entirely pet the tester at Autozone.
I needed a new one, so I bought that anyways.
Installed it & still no start & won't turn on or turn over.
Next up, the starter - it's good per test again at Autozone.
From there, we swapped out the relays & nothing happened.
Next we tried the Starter Safety Switch & no go on that either.
Next up was the Push to Start Button & still the same - No-Go.
So at this point, the battery & the above mentioned parts haven't
changed anything as of today.
so today we tried one of the two crankshaft position sensors
(the lower one on the bottom of
the engine) - That did nothing.

We can't figure it out & after reading a bunch online, we've gone thru the parts we figured & read that it could be.
What's strange is how it started
making the noise the instant I pulled in the driveway, pushed my clutch in & put in neutral as I was braking & came to a stop to park. It showed ZERO signs of any issues at all before that exact moment. So strange.

So if you've made it this far in my post & think you can offer some assistance, any help will
be greatly appreciated.
I am new to this forum & I'm hoping to find someone that has encountered this same issue
to shed some light on what my
true issue is. Thanks for any & all responses, I look forward to any
suggestions.
 

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Do you get normal lights on the dashboard, or is it mostly or totally dead?
1) If it's mostly dead, is there an amber "key" icon? If so, you have a bad Steering Lock.
2) If it's totally dead with no lights at all, check the big fusible link on top of your battery card and the smaller links on the side of it. Also, make sure the ground wire from the battery isn't broken where it attaches to the trans.
3) If it has normal dash lights, Is the red Security icon lit? If so there's a problem with either your fob or the IMMU (the key doghouse).
4) If it has normal lights and no security light but just won't crank, is there juice at the Green/White wire on the Clutch Safety Switch. If not, check fuse #31 in the IPDM.
You should use a test light for all electrical tests on starter and battery circuits, don't go visually inspecting fuses or using a voltmeter. These circuits all need to carry power and a test light bulb uses power. No other tool will give you correct answers.
 

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2008 Nissan Altima S 2.5L
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you get normal lights on the dashboard, or is it mostly or totally dead?
1) If it's mostly dead, is there an amber "key" icon? If so, you have a bad Steering Lock.
2) If it's totally dead with no lights at all, check the big fusible link on top of your battery card and the smaller links on the side of it. Also, make sure the ground wire from the battery isn't broken where it attaches to the trans.
3) If it has normal dash lights, Is the red Security icon lit? If so there's a problem with either your fob or the IMMU (the key doghouse).
4) If it has normal lights and no security light but just won't crank, is there juice at the Green/White wire on the Clutch Safety Switch. If not, check fuse #31 in the IPDM.
You should use a test light for all electrical tests on starter and battery circuits, don't go visually inspecting fuses or using a voltmeter. These circuits all need to carry power and a test light bulb uses power. No other tool will give you correct answers.
Thanks so much for the quick response. That gives me hope!!
I just went outside & at first dash lights were all on & bright at first.
(No Security Light On)
So, per your recommendation,
I looked at the #31 fuse & there wasn't one there at all?!?
So, I looked further & I'm pretty sure my father(Mr. Fix It Himself! LoL)
checked that fuse & then put it back in the wrong row! So, I found a spot with a 10A fuse in it that wasn't used, so I placed that in the #31 slot
& tried to start it.

When I pushed it to start the ignition, lights were on & it made a kind of little short umph & didn't start.
So I tried again, and the lights on the dash didn't come on & it's seemingly out of juice. The battery is brand new, but I think maybe we need a quick jump to see if it turns over.
I also don't have a light meter, but will try to borrow one if I can.
That won't get done until tomorrow morning so I'm done for the day, lol.
If this sounds like I'm on the right track let me know, or if you jabs anything further at all.
Thanks again for the help &
you'll hear from me again soon, I'm sure!
 

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That behavior is almost certainly a bad connection someplace. A near-dead battery won't cause the dash to extinguish and not come back, only dim out. You've missed a crappy connection somewhere in your battery cables.
 

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2008 Nissan Altima S 2.5L
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Where does that green/white wire for the safety switch come from?
What's strange is, it felt like I pulled in the driveway, as I turned in I pressed the clutch in & hit the brakes to stop. As I was doing this, the noise started as I pulled in, but before I stopped, so that made me feel like that safety switch was probable. As I pressed the clutch in, that started the issue.
That's how it felt as it happened anyways. I'll try chasing the battery cables & fuses tomorrow & see what I find. Thanks again for all the info.
Take care for now.
 

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Green/White comes straight from fuse #31. The other side of the switch goes back into the IPDM and drives the high side of the Starter Control Relay coil. Absolutely nothing about that circuit can make your dash lights disappear. Either your brand new battery has completely crapped out (unlikely) or you missed a crappy connection on your power or ground cables (very likely).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The dash lights stopped when I put a fuse in #31, where the was no fuse at that point. I believe my dad accidentally put the 10A fuse from #31 in the #27 spot at some point.
(Adjacent from #31,
under 3 - 15A fuses[24,25,26])
So I placed that 10A fuse from #27 back in #31 where it should be according to the assignment of the fuses in the engine compartment.

I also checked that fuse in #31 spot
by swapping it out with another 10A
fuse that was in the #54 spot, that spot is designated as unused in the schematic for the fuses.

This was all done & each way,
the compartment lights wouldn't
turn on again. I even put it back to the way it was when the lights were
all lit up on the dash initially.
Meaning no fuse in the #31 spot & I put the 10A fuse in the #27 spot,
where it says "Not Used", as I
mentioned above. Same result.
No more dash lights and not even enough power to lock the doors with the fob or the button on the handle.
Both key fob batteries are only a couple of months old & both good BTW. This is how is stands as of
now. This may sound stupid at this point, but do the unassigned fuse locations need a fuse in them to complete other circuits, or can they be empty & have no effect either way? Does that make sense??
Anyways, maybe that helps explain a bit more. Thanks.
 
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