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Discussion Starter #21
Looks like i missed the first steps in my original post, here they are:
2013 Altima Door Speaker Install:

If you are going to keep the factory Radio or Navigation system, you’ll need 2 Ohm speakers to maintain the volume and quality since the factory system is build for 2 Ohm speakers, not 4 or 8 ohm. I found Infinity and JBL offer speakers that work as direct replacements. I choose the following for my install:
JBL P662S 6.5” Shallow Mount 2 Ohm Speakers For Doors (~$88 Amazon)
JBL P963 6x9 2 Ohm Speakers for Rear Deck (~$130 Amazon)
JBL GTO18T Tweeters For Dash (~$65 Amazon) {little bright, might prefer P26T Tweeter or GTO 329 for a two way}
Infinity BassLink Powered Sub (~$199 Crutchfield) I had this all ready from my previous car.

Link to rear speaker install: http://www.altimaforums.net/2013-altima-rear-speaker-upgrade-t7650.html?t=7650

More photos here: http://photobucket.com/Altima2013Speaker

First remove OEM speakers from front door panels. It is not necessary to remove the door panel completely, you can just unsnap the bottom. Laying under it on you back, remove the three screws. You have very little space and must be careful to only bend the panel up enough to access the screws. If you are intent on removing the panel, I’ll start with how far I got, but I could not get the cover under the door handle to pop off without damage, so I just left it on.

Skip these if you don’t want to remove the Door Panel completely!

Remove the Door Handle Cover using a Pry tool, I used a set from Harbor Freight Tools for about $7 (Item #67021)
5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set



This reveals the upper screw and clips holding the Window and door lock switches.



This is the upper Screw holding the door handle to the door.



Release the clip and remove the Switches to see the lower Screw.



Unplug the harness to free the switch from the door.



Next you need to remove the cover under the door handle, I had no luck and even pulled the handle off my tool trying. This is when I decided to just pull up the panel enough to access the screws without removing the door panel rather then risking breaking something. If you do remove the panel, email me the photos!

Here is where the speaker bolts onto the door.




And the inside of the door panel:

 

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4 Ohm in the Dash?

I was just about to buy the JBL GTO329's for the front when I re-read this post. Hope I don't get blown out by the dash speakers when I put 3 Ohm speakers in there!

This is a very very helpful post. Thank you from a brand new owner of a 2014 Altima Sedan 3.5SL. Would hate to start tearing into my baby and then hit a brick wall and have to send stuff back and put it all back together only to tear it apart again for a second attempt. Can anyone verify any specific speakers that you have successfully installed in the dash that sounded good and did not require a week in shop class to craft the necessary adapters?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I'm not so sure the GTO329's would bet that overpowering, you still have 2 Ohms everywhere else, so I really think you will be fine with the 3 ohm.
 

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OK Thanks to westly197 I just successfully changed out the front dash speakers and the front door speakers. The 2014 Altima with the Bose Premium 9-speaker system will not accept deep speakers in the corners of the dash. Bose puts 1" tweeters in the front corners and a midrange speaker in the center of the dash.

The JBL GTO329 3-1/2" speakers definite do NOT fit in the dash corners on a 2014 Altima 3.5SL sedan. An individual tweeter will work.

I accidentally dislodged the tweeter from these JBL GTO329's so I decided to just use the tweeter since there was very little depth to the hole. I made a mounting plate out of a rubber floor mat about 3/16" thick. I made this the same size as the Bose square plate that the tweeter is mounted to and just screwed them into place. I used black silicone adhesive to attach the tweeter to the black mat material. Then I disconnected the center speaker, which looks more like a 3-1/2" midrange driver. I had read on other posts that this speaker just messes up the stereo imaging and you would get better separation by not using it. Well I disabled it and I cannot tell it is missing.

I was able to install the JBL P662s (s = shallow version of P662). Thanks to Westly197 I knew that only JBL and Infinity make speakers that are in the 2 Ohm range. Any other regular speaker with a 4 Ohm rating will not sound as loud, and if you do not change out all of the Bose speakers, you will have an imbalance in sound level from different speakers. I listened to some Focal IS165 and IC165 speakers that were amazing, but they are 4 Ohm and I would have had to buy and amp and it got real expensive really fast.

And one more thing: I was not sure how Bose had designed their amps to make these cheap paper speakers sound good, but i was concerned that the door speakers were receiving a limited range of frequencies. Well, I hear the tweeter on the P662s speakers just fine, so it is sending the upper range that would be directed to the tweeters.

For those of you who like great sound but don't want to start spending $1000 or much much more, your best option is to replace the speakers and leave the amp and head unit alone. I can wholeheartedly endorse these JBL speakers. Even when I chopped up the 3-1/2" to salvage the tweeters, they sound fantastic. I can hear the music now and it doesn't sound like a blanket is laying over the speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
No highs, no lows, it must be Bose...
 

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Here is a link to some images of the Bose speakers and the JBL GTO329 and P662s for comparison. IMPORTANT: I DID NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE GRILL COMPLETELY ON THE CORNER SPEAKERS. I am PRETTY sure there was an obstruction about 1 to 1-1/2 inches down that was blocking me from inserting these bulky 3.5 inch speakers into the opening. But a more dedicated person who wanted to disassemble the A-column covering to make room to get the grill completely off may prove me wrong.

Bose tweeter depth and GTO329 depth
http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/BComo/media/IMG_0967_zpse3476746.jpg.html

Bose and JBL GTO329 (you can see why the GTO329 would not fit)
http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/BComo/media/IMG_09651_zps13f4fcc9.jpg.html

My modded JBL dome tweeter extracted from the GTO329 (anyone need two leftover 3.5 midrange speakers? CHEAP! :)
http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/BComo/media/IMG_0982_zps4b5b7f21.jpg.html

Bose front door speaker and JBL P662s
http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/BComo/media/IMG_0993_zps2fa0c13c.jpg.html

I have more pictures of the connectors and miscellaneous steps of the process but these are the important ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The speakers in the non-Bose cars are considerably deeper then the tweeters in Bose system. If you look at the photos of my removed speaker baskets, you can see the 4 holes where a large magnet was attached. The depth of the GTO329 looks to be similar to the stock speakers. How does the center speaker compare to the GTO329?

Sorry I don't have an ideal photo, but here is what I do have:

 

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I have the Bose system and it is a little flat :( I see some people saying to get 2 Ohm but the Bose system has the amp so is the 2 Ohm correct? I have not messed with car stereos in s long time since I'm quickly becoming an old ******* :) Thanks for the info fellas
 

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I just bought a non-Bose 2013 Altima. Quite disappointed with the sound and I'm going to replace the 4 speakers first. My question is - is there a big difference between a 2 ohm and a 3 ohm speaker. Are both low enough for the stock head unit? Thanks for any input...
 

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Looks like i missed the first steps in my original post, here they are:
2013 Altima Door Speaker Install:

If you are going to keep the factory Radio or Navigation system, you’ll need 2 Ohm speakers to maintain the volume and quality since the factory system is build for 2 Ohm speakers, not 4 or 8 ohm. I found Infinity and JBL offer speakers that work as direct replacements. I choose the following for my install:
JBL P662S 6.5” Shallow Mount 2 Ohm Speakers For Doors (~$88 Amazon)
JBL P963 6x9 2 Ohm Speakers for Rear Deck (~$130 Amazon)
JBL GTO18T Tweeters For Dash (~$65 Amazon) {little bright, might prefer P26T Tweeter or GTO 329 for a two way}
Infinity BassLink Powered Sub (~$199 Crutchfield) I had this all ready from my previous car.

Link to rear speaker install: 2013 Altima Rear Speaker Upgrade

More photos here: Altima Speaker Install by Wes

First remove OEM speakers from front door panels. It is not necessary to remove the door panel completely, you can just unsnap the bottom. Laying under it on you back, remove the three screws. You have very little space and must be careful to only bend the panel up enough to access the screws. If you are intent on removing the panel, I’ll start with how far I got, but I could not get the cover under the door handle to pop off without damage, so I just left it on.

Skip these if you don’t want to remove the Door Panel completely!

Remove the Door Handle Cover using a Pry tool, I used a set from Harbor Freight Tools for about $7 (Item #67021)
5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set



This reveals the upper screw and clips holding the Window and door lock switches.



This is the upper Screw holding the door handle to the door.



Release the clip and remove the Switches to see the lower Screw.



Unplug the harness to free the switch from the door.



Next you need to remove the cover under the door handle, I had no luck and even pulled the handle off my tool trying. This is when I decided to just pull up the panel enough to access the screws without removing the door panel rather then risking breaking something. If you do remove the panel, email me the photos!

Here is where the speaker bolts onto the door.




And the inside of the door panel:

question can you put 3.5 speakers in the dash? Because I have some nvx 3.5 speaker and would like to put them in the are.
 
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