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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
16 Maxima 4D 3.5 S. A friend broke the Alternator plug trying to replace his and called me in to fix it. I didn't get a chance to see where everything went but his battery light is now on. Alt pushes 14v to the battery, but I think I messed up when I put the new pigtail set on it. Brown= Red, Yellow=Green and Blueish= Black is how I have it.

Everything I have read makes it look right, but I saw a post on the 10-12 Altima's Alternator that some setups are wired different.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thx for the time,
DM
 

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For a '16 Max the wires should be Brown, Yellow, Sky Blue, in order from front-to-back with the connector installed. Brown is the generator light, Yellow is the field winding, Sky Blue is the "smart charge" control wire from the IPDM. The field wire needs to have 12V at all times, if it's dead when you check it with the connector pulled then the alternator fuse is blown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For a '16 Max the wires should be Brown, Yellow, Sky Blue, in order from front-to-back with the connector installed. Brown is the generator light, Yellow is the field winding, Sky Blue is the "smart charge" control wire from the IPDM. The field wire needs to have 12V at all times, if it's dead when you check it with the connector pulled then the alternator fuse is blown.
That is how I have it setup, but the "Battery light" on the dash is still on, yet the battery is still charging fine at 14.2ish V.
If the Alt fuse is blown will it still charge correctly and just just have a battery light on? 🤔
Thanks for the response VStar.
 

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If the alternator fuse was blown it would be charging at a fraction of its normal output, no more than a few amps. If the output voltage is14.2V then it's charging normally, so the lamp must be on because of a problem in the lamp circuit or the lamp driver in the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When it was taken apart he said the wires might have touched each other (if that matters at all). Unfortunately it was my task to put it back together correctly along with fixing the AC (AC is fixed at least). If there is anything you commonly see, or tricks you know about the battery circuit please let me know.
You know how people are when the light is on, even though everything is charging fine.
Thanks.
 

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When it was taken apart he said the wires might have touched each other (if that matters at all). Unfortunately it was my task to put it back together correctly along with fixing the AC (AC is fixed at least). If there is anything you commonly see, or tricks you know about the battery circuit please let me know.
You know how people are when the light is on, even though everything is charging fine. Thanks.
Here's your WD, you can see it's butt-simple. The charge lamp gets keyed power through fuse 31 and is grounded by the alternator's internal regulator when it detects a fault. Nothing on the high side of the circuit can be the problem, only a ground can turn the lamp on. I get very suspicious when a customer tells me, "Might have touched," it usually means they got careless and sparked the sh!t out of something. Anyway, pull the alternator connector to remove any possible ground from the alternator, if the lamp stays lit then something is trashed in the wiring or the cluster. If it goes out, then he trashed the driver circuit in his new alternator.

Schematic Font Rectangle Parallel Pattern
 
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