Nissan Altima Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all!

I'm from United Arab Emirates. I'm having an American spec Altima 2.5S of 2010 and it's reaching 200k kilometers. I'm planning for a better service and parts replacements. My budget is less and I'm trying DIY due to my financial issues. I'm out of enough knowledge about the common things I've to do or parts replace with 200K kilometers. I'm planning a Saudi Arabian road trip of around 3000 km continuous drive of one side with altima. The local workshops available here are very less in quality of work and inexperienced technicians. Nissan specialized centers are bit costly. Kindly help me to do a better service on my own with the help of a garage. The main issues I'm facing are:
#shaking and hitting sound from wheel side on off roads and humps.
#roaring sound from front side on more than 80kmph and it becomes high when turning left on minimum 60kmph. Hope the issue of wheel bearing.
#orange key symbol in console.

If I'm taking to a garage then they'll say to do more works and changes of parts for their benefits and charges more....

Kindly advise me the main oil changes and basic things to do on 200k.

Thanking you.....
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
308 Posts
One of the first things you need to do is a drain/fill of the CVT fluid. To enhance longevity, the CVT fluid should always be replaced every 48,000 km. When the fluid stays in too long, the chemical properties of the fluid get compromised and it can no longer provide that cushion that's so needed between the steel belt and the cones. The fluid has two great enemies, overheated fluid is one of them caused by excessive jack-rabbit starts, pulling a heavy load, being stuck in snow trying to get out, etc. The other is shearing force generated by normal operation of the belt, which increases on hills or with a load. This gradually breaks down and shortens the long-chain molecules that cushion the belt. You can generally deduce that by looking at the fluid; if it's very dark brown and has a burnt odor, it's shot! Anybody who believes the advertising about "lifetime fluid" is doomed to a dead tranny around 160,000 km, maybe less. Hopefully your CVT is still OK.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One of the first things you need to do is a drain/fill of the CVT fluid. To enhance longevity, the CVT fluid should always be replaced every 48,000 km. When the fluid stays in too long, the chemical properties of the fluid get compromised and it can no longer provide that cushion that's so needed between the steel belt and the cones. The fluid has two great enemies, overheated fluid is one of them caused by excessive jack-rabbit starts, pulling a heavy load, being stuck in snow trying to get out, etc. The other is shearing force generated by normal operation of the belt, which increases on hills or with a load. This gradually breaks down and shortens the long-chain molecules that cushion the belt. You can generally deduce that by looking at the fluid; if it's very dark brown and has a burnt odor, it's shot! Anybody who believes the advertising about "lifetime fluid" is doomed to a dead tranny around 160,000 km, maybe less. Hopefully your CVT is still OK
Thank you for the valuable info! I'll change the CVT fluid asap because I got this car on its 160k and now it's reaching 200k. Before that I don't know when they've changed it. If you can give me more advice on my queries above will be so helpful for me!
Thanks in advance....!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
308 Posts
The main issues I'm facing are:




If I'm taking to a garage then they'll say to do more works and changes of parts for their benefits and charges more....

Kindly advise me the main oil changes and basic things to do on 200k.

Thanking you.....
#orange key symbol in console:
The security indicator light blinks whenever the ignition switch is placed in the OFF, LOCK or ACC position. This function indicates the Vehicle Immobilizer System is operational. If the Vehicle Immobilizer System is malfunctioning, the light will remain on while the ignition switch is placed in the ON position. If the light still remains on and/or the engine will not start, see a NISSAN dealer for vehicle Immobilizer System service as soon as possible. Bring all registered keys that you have when visiting your NISSAN dealer.

#shaking and hitting sound from wheel side on off roads and humps:
Inspect the suspension bushings and ball joints for wear.

#roaring sound from front side on more than 80kmph and it becomes high when turning left on minimum 60kmph. Hope the issue of wheel bearing:
Most like it's a bad wheel bearing(s). Inspect both left/right wheel bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thank you so much for the advices.
I did replace both front control arms and I'm happy that there is no hitting noise on off roads! But still a hitting sound on bumps with 40kmps. Hope it's the suspension. Anyway I'll look in to it later. Also both the front bearings replaced with new one's and no any roaring noise.
The orange key symbol in console: actually my immobilizer system is malfunctioning because some months ago the car stopped totally and completely dead due to the steering lock system. Even the mechanic couldn't solve it. Then I went through the forums and YouTube, I removed the lock module and opened it. Could find the circuit board was damaged. Then turned the lock motor manually and activated the security switches. re packed the module, placed back and she started running!
Now I've to move on for the CVT fluid.
Thanks again!
 

Attachments

1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top