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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Please scroll down to post #4 to see how to repair it.
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Want to know if it's possible to check/repair the power window master switch on a 2008 Altima. On my car the left rear window goes down but not back up with the master switch, but it will come back up with the left rear door switch (the single switch). So I suspect that it's the master switch.

Any way to check it with a multimeter? Like check for continuity between terminals A and B, etc. And any way to repair it? It's probably something simple like something not making contact inside the switch that could be repaired by just bending a metal contact. Hate to buy a new one for $$$ if I can fix mine.

Anyone ever take one apart? How? Pictures? i took mine out to look at it (comes out easily) but did not try to disassemble it.

Thanks for all replies.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I am aware of the Switchdoctor site and the used ones on eBay. But hoping I can repair the switch myself for zero cost.

Can anyone help?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
How To: Repair the power window master switch, with pics

OK, so I decided to take the plunge and try taking it apart myself. And am happy to report that YES, you CAN repair it!!! And it's pretty easy.

What happens is that crud builds up inside the little micro switches until they no longer work. I simply took it apart, cleaned it with "contact cleaner" and compressed air, and reassembled. Works perfectly now.

Here's a step by step. I couldn't figure out how to include the pictures in the body of this message, so they are attached separately...sorry.

1. Remove the master switch from the driver's door. You basically pull up on the arm cushion to remove it, then remove the plastic surround piece that holds the switch. Then release the tabs that hold the switch to the plastic piece, then unplug the wiring harness. Work slowly and carefully to not break any of the plastic tabs. There are other posts in Altima Forums that show/describe how to remove the switch from the car so I won't go into great detail here.

2. Lay the switch on a clean work surface. Wiggle/pull the window lock button straight up to remove it.

3. Separate the black top portion of the switch assembly from the white bottom portion by releasing all the tabs on both sides with small screwdrivers. Then pull straight up to remove the top portion.

4. On top of the circuit board you will see the 6 micro switches. The two on the left are for the rear windows, the two in the middle are for the front windows, and the two on the right are for the window lock and door locks (see picture). Locate the one that is not working (mine was the left rear window).

5. Clean the top of the switch with a soft brush (an old toothbrush works great). Then spray a little contact cleaner into the micro switch and move the switch tabs back and forth a few times to work the cleaner in. Then blow it out with compressed air. Do this several times to make sure it gets clean in there. You can also do the same spray/blow procedure to the switches that have the "sliders" if those are not working.

6. Reassemble the switch, install it back into the car, and enjoy your now working power windows.

Note that you can repair the individual door switches using this same method. In fact, this repair should work with numerous other makes/models of cars because most all of them use those micro switches.

Good luck!

*** UPDATE 11/19/17 -- I found another excellent product you can use to clean the switches. It is CRC brand "2-26". This product will not only clean the contacts inside the switches but it will also lubricate them as well and make the repair last even longer (pure contact cleaner does not have any lubricating properties). So I think this stuff actually works better - I used this after my master switch started acting up again about 18 months later but since then no problems. And it says right on the can "Plastic Safe and Improves Electrical Properties". Just Google "CRC 2-26" to see pics of it. You can get it lots of places, I picked it up in Home Depot for like $5 for a 5 oz. can. I also use it for other electrical stuff around the house and garage. Hope this helps.

Beachbum
 

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It Works!!

I had the exact same problem. I followed your directions and my window switch works!
Thanks very much for this post, you saved me $100 :D
 

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2010 Nissan, Rear Window would roll down from the master switch, but had to raise it from the rear window switch. Ran into this and just disassembled and sprayed contact cleaner into the switch and worked it back and forth as "My Man... Beachbum" described. Tested before reassembly...WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!! Longest part was getting to it, reassembly takes about a minute. Beachbum You are my hero of the week!!!
 

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I`ll add my thanks too. Did it & it worked.


However... did have some problems. Maybe just stupidity on my part . The window lock button broke on removal. Was still usable & since I didn`t find all the broken pieces thought it may have been apart B4 . Wondered why it was paper thin compare to the other buttons. And it`s the one you have to get off to disassemble the rest of the switch. Bet you can`t buy it as a separate part.


A small square part with contacts on it fell out during disassembly. Was for the lock/unlock doors. Had no idea which way to put back in. Got it wrong the first attempt.


A tooth brush & contact cleaner wouldn't get the crap off either. Hard black gunge on those little contact strips. Had to scrape it with a small screwdriver. Looked like it might have been done B4 too.


Not 100% impressed with the design. Hope the fix holds out so I don`t have to do it again soon. Probably just replace it next time. Still I did feel good to fix it myself this time.


Oh Hell... I guess I`d do it again. Know what to look for next time. Nothing like a free fix.
 

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Just repaired my window switch for my 2008 3.5SE.

The rear windows would NOT always work. They seemed to be intermittent, so I just attributed it to a failing switch and that nothing could be done about it.

I ordered a switch from Switch Doctor on eBay (same seller as linked above). The switch fixed my window problems, but it had a couple of issues.
First, the door locks wouldn't unlock if the car was off. ONLY when the car was on. Which is kind of stupid. Not sure if this is by design, or if the switch I received from Switch Doctor was faulty.
Second, the LED color was completely wrong. It was pretty much yellow, not amber. Made things look weird.

Anyway, instead of waiting for another week to get a replacement switch from them, I decided to disassemble my factory switch and see what was the matter.

Sadly I didn't get any pictures taken (I always think about it after the fact), but I completely took apart the master window switch. I didn't just spray contact cleaner inside each tiny switch box.
I popped off the metal "lids", removed the gray switch levers and found the culprit(s). Tiny metal bars with contact points on each end that see-saw back and forth from front to back when you move the switch up or down. Those contacts were completely black. Just tarnished to heck. They should have been bright copper.
But I guess 7 years of use and electrical currents flowing through them finally built up enough crud to disrupt the signal.
I used q-tips with contact cleaner, then used dry q-tips to wipe off any excess from the contact points. It took quite a bit of cleaner, but eventually got them presentable looking.

I don't recommend doing this if you don't have a steady hand or a knack for taking apart small electronics. It's easy to assemble it backwards or break one of the delicate pieces.

Either way, everything works great now. It's as close to new as it's going to get. Spending $225 to get a factory Nissan master switch was out of the question!
All of my windows function properly now and I have my factory switch back. I'm sending back the switch I got from Switch Doctor.

It didn't take me incredibly long to do this. Just have to be careful; there are so many breakable plastic parts taking the switch out of the door, and on the switch itself.
I broke three tabs on my arm rest trying to get it out of the door... Now I need to get a new arm rest. :-/
 

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Clean the switch - GREAT OPTION

Same problem as others here (one of the four window switches stop working on driver side master switch). Simple access to the board - a little cleaner/electronics lubricator and some pressured air, BOOM it works again. Saved $80-100 and was fixed in 10 minutes!!
 

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I ran into the master switch problem too on my 2008 altima. I took it to the local garage and they told me I needed a new master power switch for around $300. thats when i came to this forum. I followed the detailed instructions taking the master switch out, carefully disconnected the connecters and wires. Thats when i saw the dust, crud, and whatever else seemed to form or build up over the 7 yrs of ownership in the micro switch boxes. I used the contact cleaner sprayed each micro switch box out, connected it all back together and installed the unit back into the door and it was totally unreal how they worked again. Thanks so much for this thread, I've now come to realize this local garage was trying to get me on 300$ however i did call them to let them now I would be cancelling my appointment and to NOT order the switch now for me because an 8$ can of contact cleaner is all it needed.!!!!!!
 

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Thank you Beachbum!

My wife's car is a 2008 Altima. We had the driver side window down when a storm came through and got the master switch area wet. The passenger side front window went down and then would not come up the next day. All other 3 windows worked perfectly fine... Both the passenger button, and the one on the master panel would not make the front passenger window go up..I would hear it clicking. I disassembled the master switch and let it dry out. I also cleaned the connectors, etc... I put it back together and it works like a charm!

Thank you Beachbum!!
 

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Thanks Beachbum! Same as the last response. Windows were left down in a storm and after the back drivers side wouldn't go up. Followed your instructions and it works again.
 

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2009 altima installation of master window switch

I have looked everywhere to see if someone has instructions for taking out the old master switch and replacing it with a new. I cannot find anything that is like the 2009 switch replacement. There simply is no video or anything that tells how to remove the panel on 2009. Can you please offer some assistance on the removal of the door panel's master switch?. Thanks
 

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Anyone have a video or series of pictures showing how to take the microswitches themselves apart? I don't want to break them but I can't get the passenger front switch to work more than a few days after I spray contact cleaner into it. I want to open it up and clean it with a wire brush or something but I don't want to break it. I managed to get the silver metal "cover" off but couldn't figure out how to open the switch further.
 
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