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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i need help here! First a little history. I hop in the car and push the button to start it, nothing. Not knowing whats wrong ? I keep attempting to start it and after a few minutes it starts. Later on , i get back in the car to start it, nothing happens. Now to get the car started i would have to jump it at the starter. Now i turn the car on and get nothing. So i refer to youtube as to what maybe the problem ? Now trying to do it the youtube way? I have a new starter in the car, I have changed ot the steering lock box, the ECM, BCM, and even changed out the under the hood fuse box , ( which i was told something was wrong with it ?). Since i had a new BCM and ECM , which came from the same year as mine, even had someone come with his computer to mate the key to ther different ECM<BCM.. Changed the break sensor. Now when i attemt to start the car, everything comes on , i mean the dash lights work, widows, radio, steering lock box, everything works. And when i press the brake pedal for to turn the car on, everything turns off and goes back to the beginning. I hear a clicking noise in the engine area ? Im told it could be a lose ground? because no power is getting to the starter relay, which powers the starter, I cant even jump it at the starter because no power is gettig to it. so, Is there anyone out there that may even know what may be the problem ??It's my only car and transportation and without it , i cant work . Help !
 

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will that prevent power getting to starter ?
Yes.

Where do i check that ?
Look at the reflection of the third brake lamp in the back window, if it isn't lighting then the BCM and TCM can't see the lamp signal either.

The stop lamp fuse on most models is in the cabin fusebox. The brake switch is on the brake pedal frame. There are two, one is usually a 2-wire brown connector for the cruise control, the other is usually a 2- or 4-wire white for the brake lamps (and ABS if you have it). The brake lamp switch is the one that causes issues, the cruise switch won't cause any. They're about $15 from RockAuto and $25~30 at most parts stores. No tools needed, the switch just twists counterclockwise to unlock and remove, clockwise to lock in place. Adjust the height so a small amount of pedal movement turns on the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i checked the rear brakes lights, and not only didnt the the middle one didnt work, but none of my brake lights didnt work. checked fuses and where good. So what can i do next.
 

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Check the switch. In most gen4's the supply wire will be Yellow/Red and the wire to the lights will be Red/Green. Y/R should have 12V at all times, R/G should get 12V when you push the pedal. If the voltage coming out of R/G is zero or much lower than Y/R, the switch is shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i checked the brake sensor, when i did i found that the there was a burned out and broke wire. That was the reason my brake lights didnt work. So i fixed the broken wire and now my back brakes work. I connected my obd2 reader and i got numerous codes, but the one code that concerns me is the B2191 which says difference in. So i assume that its not reading my key. i think because i dont have my original BCM. I have the ECM. I tried it with the original ECM and the replacement ECM and i got the same codes. So could it be possible that the reason it wont atart is because of the code B2191 ?
 

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B2191 will definitely keep it from starting. The BCM, ECM, and IMMU all need to be on the same page with the key code, so I'm sure all that swapping has screwed things up. Even if you go back to all the original hardware, you'll probably need to get the keys reregistered before it will start again,.
 
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