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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 3.5SL. Both front power windows suddenly stopped working. Both rear windows work fine. I pulled the fuse for the DR side and it looked fine, but replaced it with the spare. No change. What should I check next?
 

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If the passenger window will still work using the passenger side switch, check the ground pin on the master switch connector. They have a nasty habit of corroding and blackening, and the usual result is rear windows that work but fronts that don't. It could also be a bad master switch. There aren't any discrete fuses for the window system, it's all supplied through the RAP (retained power) circuit in the BCM. That also supplies the rear windows, so it can't be the problem. If the passenger side won't work on its own, then you're probably looking at a wiring issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the passenger window will still work using the passenger side switch, check the ground pin on the master switch connector. They have a nasty habit of corroding and blackening, and the usual result is rear windows that work but fronts that don't. It could also be a bad master switch. There aren't any discrete fuses for the window system, it's all supplied through the RAP (retained power) circuit in the BCM. That also supplies the rear windows, so it can't be the problem. If the passenger side won't work on its own, then you're probably looking at a wiring issue.
I checked the passenger switch and it did not work. I then tried to operate the rear windows and they did not work. Nor did the locks. I removed the master switch to get the correct P/N to order one online. After doing so, I reinstalled the original switch. Now everything works. So if anyone needs a used 24501 3TA4A master switch, I'll have one. Maybe if I disassemble half the car's interior, the shift lock will start working again.
 

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Check the ground pin in the master switch connector, if it's darkened then that's your issue and not the switch. It's a very common failure in gen5 Alties, and it will get worse if you don't address it. If it's badly burnt then the connector pin will need replacement (a JY pin from the same type connector will work fine), but if it's only blackened with no melting, you can use some contact cleaner and do some scraping with a very fine pick.

The shift lock problem will be a bad microswitch on the bottom of the shifter, that's also very common in gen5's. You can actually repair it yourself if you're handy with solder and rework, the switch is 100 milliamp type and you replace it with a 5 amp Omron SS5-GL13 from Mouser or Digi-Key. On a '13 your original shifter will be a -3NW2A version and not the later -3NW4A, which makes it a simple job. The 4A's need reworking of the plastic switch-carrier to install the new switch, but on 2A's the new switch just snaps in without modification. This eBay listing has a very lucid explanation of why they fail:

 

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I have same question, in my case one of the front right power windows suddenly stopped working. all other windows work fine. What should I check?
 

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I have same question, in my case one of the front right power windows suddenly stopped working. all other windows work fine. What should I check?
First see if it works with the passenger door switch but not with the master,. If so, that rules out the motor and wiring and means the problem is most likely in the master. If not, check for power and ground to the motor at the passenger switch connector when you activate the switch. If you get power and ground to the motor in both directions but the motor doesn't spin, then the motor is shot. If not, then it's a switch or wiring problem. How you diagnose that depends on your exact model-year and whether the passenger window has "Auto" or not (auto windows have a position encoder which can cause problems in addition to the normal window stuff).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check the ground pin in the master switch connector, if it's darkened then that's your issue and not the switch. It's a very common failure in gen5 Alties, and it will get worse if you don't address it. If it's badly burnt then the connector pin will need replacement (a JY pin from the same type connector will work fine), but if it's only blackened with no melting, you can use some contact cleaner and do some scraping with a very fine pick.

The shift lock problem will be a bad microswitch on the bottom of the shifter, that's also very common in gen5's. You can actually repair it yourself if you're handy with solder and rework, the switch is 100 milliamp type and you replace it with a 5 amp Omron SS5-GL13 from Mouser or Digi-Key. On a '13 your original shifter will be a -3NW2A version and not the later -3NW4A, which makes it a simple job. The 4A's need reworking of the plastic switch-carrier to install the new switch, but on 2A's the new switch just snaps in without modification. This eBay listing has a very lucid explanation of why they fail:

All the pins are bright and shiny, so now I wait for the new switch. Thanks for the lead on the shifter.
 
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