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Is it a '10 Altima? The WD shows only the color on that one wire being different between the QR and the VQ. If you have a different MY then the colors may be different, Nissan doesn't use any "standard colors" in their harnesses
 

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Yeah it’s a 2010 4 door Nissan Altima with a 3.5L v6 engine and the wires going to the alternator plug is brown orange and yellow
10972
 

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Thank you so much. Would you happen to know where I could find a pigtail/connector? I’ve seen one on Amazon that has aluminum wiring for $6 but not sure how good the quality is.
 

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Mixing aluminum and copper wire isn't a great idea, but there are copper ones out there:


Use something like these to splice it for a permanent, waterproof fix. Solder shrinks are God's gift to good wiring repair:

 

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This is the first schematic I've found that matches my wire colors. Everything else I've found has a yellow/black wire instead of solid yellow and usually a grey wire instead of orange
 

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I have a Nissan Altima 2010 3.5 sr I'm having the same issue took out the old alternator plug shatter to a thousand pieces now I'm having trouble pinpointing which color goes to what I have orange brown and yellow On the old alternator I have the letters S C L not necessarily in that order could use some help Thank you
 

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My pleasure. Happy motoring!
Good morning so I did what you said Brown orange yellow from bumper some motor got everything hooked up battery was charging AC was running no check engine lights nothing like that I put my car back together I get it back on the road I pull up to a stop light service engine light comes on and the car would not move I would hit the gas and nothing!! 2-3 minutes later I hit the gas the car takes off I get the car pulled over I get my multimeter out I test the battery and the battery is at 11 volts I really don't know what to do any ideas?
 

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First check the alternator fuse, it should be a 10A in the small fuse and relay box in front of the IPDM. That's the field supply, it won't charge if it's blown. Regulation is internal on those alternators at around 14.2V, so if it isn't charging and the fuse is good, something is zapped in the alternator itself.
 

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First check the alternator fuse, it should be a 10A in the small fuse and relay box in front of the IPDM. That's the field supply, it won't charge if it's blown. Regulation is internal on those alternators at around 14.2V, so if it isn't charging and the fuse is good, something is zapped in the alternator itself.
So I've checked all the fuses All the fuses are good we charged the battery to full capacity everything was operational until I drove the car for 10 minutes or so and we'll be tested the battery on the side of the road it was only 11 volts
 

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So I've checked all the fuses All the fuses are good we charged the battery to full capacity everything was operational until I drove the car for 10 minutes or so and we'll be tested the battery on the side of the road it was only 11 volts
Can You give me a schematic by chance of where the Ipdm is at Google isn't telling me nothing
 

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It's the angled box next to the lefthand strut tower, pop the cover and the IPDM is the big white thing. There will be another group of fuses inboard from the IPDM, that should be where the alternator fuse is located.
 
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