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Yep, if you can't monitor then a short drive or a low-grade converter-stall is needed. If you want to do a stall, it's foot on the brake in gear and run the RPM's up. Don't get carried away, 2 minutes at 1500 or 3 minutes at 1200 from a cold start will usually suffice. What you're doing is creating waste heat in the torque converter, but since nothing else is moving, it's harmless to the tranny as long as you don't go crazy and overheat it.
 

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Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
  1. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
  2. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
  3. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
  4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
  5. Wait 7 seconds
  6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns ON.
  7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. Start engine and let it idle. THE ENGINE MUST BE STARTED WITHIN THE 3 SECONDS AFTER IT STOPS BLINKING, THATS HOW THIS LIGHT GOES OFF. THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT STATE THIS, BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM WHERE THE ENGINE LINE ON-OFF IS, IT CLEARLY SHOWS YOU SHOULD TURN IT ON WITHIN THESE THREE SECONDS.
This is where your engine will start to learn the correct idle settings

  1. Wait 20 seconds.
  2. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
There seems to be an instruction missing between #6 & #7?

#6 says to hold the accelerator pedal down until until the MIL light stops blinking and turns on. #7 says to releases the pedal after the MIL light turns off. How did we get from the MIL light off to on?
 

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After cleaning the throttle body yesterday, the idle speed jumped to about 1200. My mechanic buddy pulled the injectors but it didn't help. Learn function still failed. Possible that the trans wasn't warm enough though because it had been sitting in the driveway for some hours. We checked the H2O temp, which was high enough. Unsure if there is a trans temp monitor function in the software. Will try again after driving ithe car around.
The engine/transmission has to be brought up to normal operating temperature, 160-203°F or 70-95°C; do this by driving on the road for not less than 30 minutes; warming up the car in the garage doesn’t cut it! Next turn off all accessories such as the air conditioning, rear window defogger, radio, and heater blower to prevent a load on the engine which would cause erroneous positioning of the throttle plate. Finally, make sure the front wheels of the vehicle are in the neutral position pointing straight ahead.
 

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The engine/transmission has to be brought up to normal operating temperature, 160-203°F or 70-95°C; do this by driving on the road for not less than 30 minutes; warming up the car in the garage doesn’t cut it! Next turn off all accessories such as the air conditioning, rear window defogger, radio, and heater blower to prevent a load on the engine which would cause erroneous positioning of the throttle plate. Finally, make sure the front wheels of the vehicle are in the neutral position pointing straight ahead.
Yes. did all that. Followed the setup instructions exactly.

With multiple tries on manual procedure, it did seem like it was working finally as I saw the idle decline to around the 800 area. Success, I thought! But wrong. After turning the car off and on again, the high idle returned almost immediately.
 

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There seems to be an instruction missing between #6 & #7?

#6 says to hold the accelerator pedal down until until the MIL light stops blinking and turns on. #7 says to releases the pedal after the MIL light turns off. How did we get from the MIL light off to on?
I recently cleaned my throttle body and went threw the PAIN of trying to relearn my idle through the step by step process. But its missleading, the 7th step says to start car after light goes off but never does. You actualy start car as soon as light stops blinking! Hope this helps somebody.

  1. ENGINE COLD
  2. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
  3. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  6. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  7. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  8. WAIT over 10 seconds before this next step.
  9. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
  10. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  11. Turn ignition switch “ON”. WAIT EXACTLY ONE SECOND SHARP. Turn ignition switch “OFF”
  12. THEN wait at least 10 seconds.
  13. Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. - Very hard to hear anything at all. Just believe this is happening by faith.
Now, here's the big change
  1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
AND RIDE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES, this will make for correct operating temperatures to happen within the engine for the following steps. Warming your car in the garage in the morning aparently does not cut it.


Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
  1. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
  2. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
  3. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
  4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
  5. Wait 7 seconds
  6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns ON.
  7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. Start engine and let it idle. THE ENGINE MUST BE STARTED WITHIN THE 3 SECONDS AFTER IT STOPS BLINKING, THATS HOW THIS LIGHT GOES OFF. THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT STATE THIS, BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM WHERE THE ENGINE LINE ON-OFF IS, IT CLEARLY SHOWS YOU SHOULD TURN IT ON WITHIN THESE THREE SECONDS.
This is where your engine will start to learn the correct idle settings

  1. Wait 20 seconds.
  2. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
There seems to be an instruction missing between #6 & #7?

#6 says to hold the accelerator pedal down until until the MIL light stops blinking and turns on. #7 says to releases the pedal after the MIL light turns off. How did we get from the MIL light off to on?
His IAVL is not quite correct. It is somewhat confusing between steps #6 and #7. Here's my IAVL procedure which I hope corrects the confusion:

According to the FSM, the No load* (in P or N position) idle speed is 650 +/- 50 rpm. The idle speed is controlled by the ECU; there is no manual adjustment like they had on the old cars. If you need to bring the idle speed back down to spec, there is a procedure called the "Idle Air Volume Learning" which is a function of ECU to learn the idle air volume that keeps the engine idle speed within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:

• Each time the electric throttle control actuator or ECU is replaced.
• Each time the throttle body harness connectors are unplugged/replugged.
• Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
• Check Engine Light (CEL) with P0507 trouble code and high/pulsating idle.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds to reset the ECU. Do not perform the relearn if the service engine soon light (CEL) is still on and codes related to the mass airflow sensor, manifold absolute pressure, or incorrect idle speed are found. If everything is in order, we can begin.

First, bring the engine/transmission to normal operating temperature, 160-203°F or 70-95°C; do this by driving on the road for not less than 30 minutes; warming up the car in the garage doesn’t cut it! Next turn off all accessories such as the air conditioning, rear window defogger, radio, and heater blower to prevent a load on the engine which would cause erroneous positioning of the throttle plate. Finally, make sure the front wheels of the vehicle are in the neutral position pointing straight ahead. We are now ready to perform the required relearn procedures:

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Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Slope


TOOLS NEEDED: stopwatch or timer showing seconds.

ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION LEARNING

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

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THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

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IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING

1. When the engine is COLD, first perform the Accelerator Released Position and then the Throttle Valve Closed Position procedure as shown above.
2. Warm up engine/transmission at this point by driving on the road for not less than 30 minutes; warming up the car in the garage doesn’t cut it!
3. Put the car in Park, turn off all electrical powered stuff, wheels turned straight.
4. Turn key OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Turn key ON (not ignition) and start stopwatch at same time.
6. When stopwatch is at 3 seconds, press & release accelerator pedal 5 times fully and quickly within 5 seconds.
7. Wait 7 seconds or more then fully press the accelerator pedal and hold for approximately 20 seconds or more until the check engine light stops blinking and constantly stays on.
(note: If the CEL never starts blinking, then something is not working and you'd better start over again).
8. Within 3 seconds after the check engine light stays constantly on, release the accelerator pedal.
9. Immediately start the engine and let it idle. It may still likely be a high-rev/pulsating idle.
10. Let it run for no less then 20 seconds, then rev the engine a few times.
11. With foot on brake, shift into Drive. Idle should now go down under 1000 rpm. Shift to Park again, and the car should find its regular idle speed. Operation will be normal except theCEL may still be on. It may disappear soon on its own, or you can do the following:

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EASY RESET OF CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL)

1. Turn key OFF and wait at least 10 seconds
2. Turn key ON (no ignition), wait 3 seconds, then press & release accelerator 5x hard and quickly.
3. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press accelerator.
4. After about 12 seconds CEL will go off then start blinking. As soon as it starts blinking, release the accelerator.
5. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press accelerator again.
6. Wait 10 seconds, then release the accelerator again.
7. Turn the key to off, then immediately start the engine. The CEL should be gone now.
 

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His IAVL is not quite correct. It is somewhat confusing between steps #6 and #7. Here's my IAVL procedure which I hope corrects the confusion:
....
EASY RESET OF CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL)

1. Turn key OFF and wait at least 10 seconds
2. Turn key ON (no ignition), wait 3 seconds, then press & release accelerator 5x hard and quickly.
3. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press accelerator.
4. After about 12 seconds CEL will go off then start blinking. As soon as it starts blinking, release the accelerator.
5. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press accelerator again.
6. Wait 10 seconds, then release the accelerator again.
7. Turn the key to off, then immediately start the engine. The CEL should be gone now.
This whole post should be made a site sticky!
 

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I took my car to the shop (independent, not Nissan), wound up being charged $350 (2 hours work) and they got the idle set correctly. Car running nicely now.
 
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