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One thing I did do was leave the vehicle over night with them that way they can experience my near death experiences.
That's probably a good idea. When IVT/EVT's act up hydraulically, it's usually when they're dead cold or fully warm. Maybe they'll get it to act up.
 

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If not, since your scanner does capture, set it up to monitor RPM, engine temp, MAF, short-term fuel trim, and both cam angles. If you capture a "freeze frame" it should make the likely suspects plain, both for us and them. Like I said, any cam angle much above 0 at idle speed is a smoking gun. That goes for the intake as well, although I doubt that's the issue. The IVT on the new Altie is electronic with it's own controller, whereas the EVT is a traditional solenoid with a hydraulic phaser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
If not, since your scanner does capture, set it up to monitor RPM, engine temp, MAF, short-term fuel trim, and both cam angles. If you capture a "freeze frame" it should make the likely suspects plain, both for us and them. Like I said, any cam angle much above 0 at idle speed is a smoking gun. That goes for the intake as well, although I doubt that's the issue. The IVT on the new Altie is electronic with it's own controller, whereas the EVT is a traditional solenoid with a hydraulic phaser.
I have data actually. Let me send it over.
 

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Well, that's crappy, it looks like it doesn't do cam angles. You might want to look through the setup and see if you can alter the parameters it captures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Ho, wait a sec... I did see those exact symptoms once before, on a Juke. Turned out to be an EVT solenoid (exhaust valve timing) that was sticking, keeping the exhaust cam at 20+ degrees of retard. The only code it threw was P0101, but the car would barely run. Tell the dealer to put the cams up on C3+ Data Monitor and look at the timing. If the exhaust shows anything above 0 degrees at idle, that's the culprit.
I told them exactly what u said and they chose not to do anything about it and says they can’t do anything for me unless it’s active. I give up. I don’t know what else to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Ho, wait a sec... I did see those exact symptoms once before, on a Juke. Turned out to be an EVT solenoid (exhaust valve timing) that was sticking, keeping the exhaust cam at 20+ degrees of retard. The only code it threw was P0101, but the car would barely run. Tell the dealer to put the cams up on C3+ Data Monitor and look at the timing. If the exhaust shows anything above 0 degrees at idle, that's the culprit.
I told them exactly what u said and they chose not to do anything about it and says they can’t do anything for me unless it’s active. I give up. I don’t know what else to do.
Well, that's crappy, it looks like it doesn't do cam angles. You might want to look through the setup and see if you can alter the parameters it captures.
So I received my car back and I was looking at my scanner and it shows me live gauges. if you tell me how to check it I can get you the info it shows. also, if u private message me I can show u the diagnosis paperwork.
 

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I sympathize, but with them also. Intermittent problems are the worst, and the dealer techs can't guess because Nissan will kick back any warranty repair that doesn't solve the problem. That means they, or you, need to catch it in the act. There are only two things I can suggest. One is give them permission to drive your car and let a tech commute with a Consult attached. The downside of that is, we don't know how frequently it might occur. If it's driven for several days and won't do it, they'll give up on it again. The other alternative is to get yourself a scanner that will read cam parameters and not just the standard freeze frame data stored by the Nissan ECM, which I think is what your scanner is reporting. That's always been a pet [email protected]#%& of mine, that Nissan FF's don't capture cam angles. It would save a lot of headaches, but instead we have to catch them manually using Data Monitor. You may need to do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
When you have an opportunity, could you check out this YouTube video and tell me if what starts after 20:00 if this could help me determine the cams?

 

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Yep, that's exactly the kind of problem I'm talking about, but with the exhaust phaser and not the intake. Your engine doesn't have an "Intermediate Lock" solenoid because the IVT is electronic, so it doesn't need one. We can take a slightly different approach using Consult3+ because it allows us to watch the solenoid PWM and the cam angle from the sensor at the same time, if they don't move together then we know there's a hydraulic issue. But as I mentioned earlier, the EVT angle should always read 0 degrees at idle, so if it's at any other angle with the engine idling then you know the problem is in that subsystem. For some reason Nissan ECM's are very reliable about tossing P0011's or similar codes for problems on the intake side, but problems on the exhaust side usually masquerade as other things like P0101's. That's just a firmware thing, probably only Hitachi knows why.

To give everyone a brief explanation of how these systems work, the camshafts determine when the intake and exhaust valves open and close, the intake to let fresh mixture into the cylinder and the exhaust to let burnt stuff out. On Nissans, one or both camshafts can be "advanced" or "retarded" to change the point at which the valve operates relative to the piston position. This differential is called "cam angle." The arrangement allows the engine to "Miller cycle" at cruising speeds, sucking a tiny bit of exhaust gas back into the cylinder and eliminating all the horrible plumbing of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), and at the same time allowing aggressive intake angles for high power when needed. On your Altima, the cam angle controls work in two different ways. The intake cam has an electric motor that normally matches the speed of the cam, but can run slightly faster or slightly slower to advance or retard it. This is the very latest in cam technology and Nissan has only employed it for a few years. The exhaust cam has a more-traditional hydraulic "phaser" that uses oil pressure to change the angle, using a solenoid just like the Altie in the video. These solenoids can sometimes "stick" and cause the exhaust cam to operate at the wrong angle. Problems with the electric motor on the intake cam could cause the same behaviors, but because the cam motor has its own controller separate from the main engine computer (ECM), it's very unlikely that it would malfunction without throwing a specific DTC. In contrast, the exhaust cam is under direct ECM control, and when they stick the ECM often won't recognize it as a hydraulic problem, instead blaming either the MAF or the cam sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Just wanted to give a brief update on the current situation. The code 101 is still continuing to be present intermittently. A throttle body was replaced due to dealerships findings. Currently, the car is still "Malfunctioning, Losing power, Service now." As I find out more I will acknowledge here and if anyone has any similar issues or questions please leave them here or personally message me. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
For this still following, I am currently dealing with the following problems:

Infotainment; volume button acting erratic, phone calls connected between iPhone 11 and usb-c to lightning connection
Intermittent MAF code P0101
Rear Sensors/Front Sensors detecting both objects there and not there and causing Malfunction and eventually losing complete power.
Throttle Body has been replaced.
One Nissan service that told me they couldn't re-create the incident so they cant help me.
One Nissan service that complains that I am not paying for repairs and my issues have nothing to do with "powertrain."
One nissan service provider that did update software for infotainment to 0810 but the previous service provider right above this, changed the software to 0345 and has caused my issues to become worse. If anyone has any relevant information pertaining to my year and model, please share. This is the most god awful experience with a car at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Hello all and to all those who have yet to read my experiences thus far. Its been about 6 months since I first experienced my first MIL, it all occurred after a concern from my radio and the volume knob having a staggered effect when raising or lowering the volume. I approached a local Dealership who performed an upgrade to the infotainment and at the time it seemed to do the trick but 3 days later, I began to experience the vehicle stopping on its own and turning off, erratic idling from low to high revs, loss of gas exuberantly, and just an overwhelming lack of feeling of being safe. I sought out 5 dealerships, several repair orders and yet have I ever received a single "diagnosis" because they cant "re-create" the issue. I really find this hard to believe and I would like to reach out to the community and find out if anyone else has also experienced this too. The reason for this post is because I just want someone to tell me they have the same experiences and how they resolved the issue. If anyone knows of a shop in Northern California they could refer me to I would appreciate this so much, Thanks everyone.
 

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Since the dealer had replaced the throttle body, did they perform an idle system re-learn. The re-learn should fix the erratic idling issue. The engine sudden shutting off can be caused by a marginal camshaft position sensor or a marginal crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors.

The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition. You can take your vehicle to a dealer/repair shop and they'll tell you there is nothing wrong after they go through with diagnostic tests because at that time the vehicle was running OK. You could end up spending $200 or much more depending on how much time/parts are used.

When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $75.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Since the dealer had replaced the throttle body, did they perform an idle system re-learn. The re-learn should fix the erratic idling issue. The engine sudden shutting off can be caused by a marginal camshaft position sensor or a marginal crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors.

The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition. You can take your vehicle to a dealer/repair shop and they'll tell you there is nothing wrong after they go through with diagnostic tests because at that time the vehicle was running OK. You could end up spending $200 or much more depending on how much time/parts are used.

When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $75.
I delivered the vehicle to a new dealership this Thursday and spent time talking to the SA. One of the healthy notices I was able to provide is that all of my warning lights appeared while driving into the service area. Because of this they had video, pictures, and plenty of paper work available. They were able to research and realize that one of the dealerships claimed on service paper work that a reprogram was completed on the ecu when in reality it never was. They did a few different drives with the vehicle and not once did a light appear. So I was able to pick the car back up Friday night. Did a bit of driving since and not a light. Truly hoping this is the solution.
 

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I delivered the vehicle to a new dealership this Thursday and spent time talking to the SA. One of the healthy notices I was able to provide is that all of my warning lights appeared while driving into the service area. Because of this they had video, pictures, and plenty of paper work available. They were able to research and realize that one of the dealerships claimed on service paper work that a reprogram was completed on the ecu when in reality it never was. They did a few different drives with the vehicle and not once did a light appear. So I was able to pick the car back up Friday night. Did a bit of driving since and not a light. Truly hoping this is the solution.
Good to hear that a re-flash of the ECU fixed your problems. Shame on that one negligent stealership that said but didn't do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Good to hear that a re-flash of the ECU fixed your problems. Shame on that one negligent stealership that said but didn't do.
Yes sir. Crazy how these little things can matter. Will share if any other issues arise.

* For those still following*—

I do hope if you have the same symptoms to please think of this odd and unusual repair that was made. I’m in no means a mechanic therefore it seems odd and unusual, I’m so glad I didn’t attempt the repair and left for the pros. A little time and patience will do this to you. If this repair doesn’t fix or has any relevant info to show share I will acknowledge back here. Thanks for everyone’s involvement including those in my messages.

thanks again,

anthony
 
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