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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

i changed my front brakes and calipers and went to go for a drive until i got in my car and my car would light up but the car wouldn't start. The digital display shows it wants me to brake and hit the start button even though i already did. I also see the VDC, SLIP, ABS, BRAKE, and PS light. Im also getting the service engine soon light but im getting a heated 02 sensor/02 sensor code. My steering wheel loses its power steering. The only way for my car to start is i need to take a terminal off the battery and put it back on after 30 seconds. Then the car lasts a day or so and then starts the problem again.

I have replaced the 12V DC battery, the problem fixed for a week then started back up again. At first it did this for a couple days until i lost all power and no lights or anything happened so i replaced the battery then. i don't think its draining my battery as i have been testing my new battery daily and im not losing amperage or volts.

Using a more specific scanner, i am getting a few EV codes but the Nissan dealership doesnt know what the codes are. The scanner itself is saying it could be anything from a corroded line, hybrid battery, a relay of some sort, and 2 other possible solutions i don't remember. Has anyone ran into this problem? im not sure where to start and dont want to get a hybrid battery since the car goes into EV mode no problem and the battery gauge still stays around 80-90% and recharges.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do the brake lights come on when it's misbehaving? If not, you have a bad brake switch. I'm EV/HEV-qualified, so if you want to post the EV codes, I can look them up in ASIST and advise you.
using the CAN scanner (i think) i managed to get these codes. Using a normal scanner i was getting P1148 (1/3 and 2/3) and P0031 (3/3). But those codes are for my O2.
11017
11018
 

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The P0AA6 is very serious, it means there's a short of some kind in one of the high voltage components. You really need to get the "INF" code attached to it, a hyphenated number like "P0AA6-526". That will indicate which part of the HV system the problem is in. Here's the chart from the ESM:

11019


Check the notes at the bottom, that code will prevent the car from starting until it's cleared.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The P0AA6 is very serious, it means there's a short of some kind in one of the high voltage components. You really need to get the "INF" code attached to it, a hyphenated number like "P0AA6-526". That will indicate which part of the HV system the problem is in. Here's the chart from the ESM:

View attachment 11019

Check the notes at the bottom, that code will prevent the car from starting until it's cleared.
This is the furthest ive gotten intwo weeks. Thank you! Ill have to get the scanner on it again and get the INF code. Im not sure if the scanner i originally used gave it but i can check again. I tried giving that code to a nissan dealer and they didnt have it in their system, the other dealers around dont seem to have a hybrid tech or dont answer their phones.
Is their a more common INF code? My battery seems to be working fine, and it works for a day or two after resetting the 12v battery. Could it be the relay on the right side of the trunk between the 12V and hybrid battery?
 

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I tried giving that code to a nissan dealer and they didnt have it in their system, the other dealers around dont seem to have a hybrid tech or dont answer their phones.
Honestly, every Nissan tech everywhere hates your car, including me. Same for the '14 Pathie hybrids. Both were basically badly-documented and ill-designed experiments. For the Altie HEV, they were only marketed in California, so outside of Cali you'll find very few techs who have even seen one. I've been at this dealership since '13 and seen exactly one in all that time.
 

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Could it be the relay on the right side of the trunk between the 12V and hybrid battery?
Yes, but be FRIGGING CAREFUL if you go poking around in the HV systems. The HV battery is 244V DC, the equivalent of about 348V AC. It will fry you in milliseconds if you make the slightest contact. If you don't know exactly what you're doing, don't go there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Honestly, every Nissan tech everywhere hates your car, including me. Same for the '14 Pathie hybrids. Both were basically badly-documented and ill-designed experiments. For the Altie HEV, they were only marketed in California, so outside of Cali you'll find very few techs who have even seen one. I've been at this dealership since '13 and seen exactly one in all that time.
Wow that would explain a lot. Is it a good car to have or should i fix the problem and try selling it? Its got 80k miles on it, ive fixed normal things so far like control arms, calipers, 12V battery, etc within the last two years of me owning it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, but be FRIGGING CAREFUL if you go poking around in the HV systems. The HV battery is 244V DC, the equivalent of about 348V AC. It will fry you in milliseconds if you make the slightest contact. If you don't know exactly what you're doing, don't go there!
where and how should i test before taking apart anything? If i need to ill take off the service disconnect. Ive worked with high voltage before, i have equipment for it. Just need to know where to start and how to test components so i can narrow it down.
 

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Just make sure you disconnect the 12V battery and remove the key from the car, then pull the HV battery service plug and give the car 10 minutes for the big caps in the motor controller to discharge. Then check the block, chassis and battery case for voltage before you touch them. Until everything reads ground, use PPE, and only use meters/equipment rated for 400V or better. BUT, get the INF code before you go chasing ghosts and shadows. It could be something as dumb as a shorted AC compressor, but without the INF you won't know where to look. Keep in mind that the short could be failing components in an "active" system like the motor controller, so an ohmmeter won't necessarily help you once the service plug is removed. Identify the culprit system before you go hunting.
 

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Wow that would explain a lot. Is it a good car to have or should i fix the problem and try selling it? Its got 80k miles on it, ive fixed normal things so far like control arms, calipers, 12V battery, etc within the last two years of me owning it.
They're good cars, but because of the limited distribution and muddled documentation, they're also red-headed stepchildren that nobody wants to deal with. Parts for the HV systems are also hideously expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just make sure you disconnect the 12V battery and remove the key from the car, then pull the HV battery service plug and give the car 10 minutes for the big caps in the motor controller to discharge. Then check the block, chassis and battery case for voltage before you touch them. Until everything reads ground, use PPE, and only use meters/equipment rated for 400V or better. BUT, get the INF code before you go chasing ghosts and shadows. It could be something as dumb as a shorted AC compressor, but without the INF you won't know where to look. Keep in mind that the short could be failing components in an "active" system like the motor controller, so an ohmmeter won't necessarily help you once the service plug is removed. Identify the culprit system before you go hunting.
I might have to wait until tuesday. Called about 6-7 dealerships near me and well there might be one mechanic who is certified for EV. I cant get the INF code through the scanners, only the P0AA6 code. Ill just try not to drive the car much until then. Thanks for the help. If i can get info on what the problem is and what could have made the problem happen ill keep you updated. As an electrical engineer myself, id lovr to learn about the system.
 
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