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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day I went to replace the headlight assemblies on my Altima, due to the practically non-existent light output from the low beams. Once I got the assemblies out, I discovered they were full of dirt and grime, and practically all of the unsheathed wiring was rotten to the point of some of them snapping from just the weight of the bulb. I bought a new sub-harness from the dealer. I figured it would be easier to replace the whole thing, rather than trying to splice all of the rotten wires. That, and while I'm pretty handy, and do most of my car repairs, I'm not super comfortable with most things electrical. My guy that helps me with my electrical work is out of town for a week, and my friend is on my butt to get the car out of her garage like yesterday. The replacement looks pretty straightforward if I just follow the old one with the new one, but I'd feel more comfortable if I could get a hold of some instructions, tips, tricks, or "should know beforehands" before tackling this project. I bought an All Data subscription for my car, but it has nothing on replacing wiring. Could anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks.
 

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I presume what you're replacing is the Front End Module Harness 24023-3TA0C? If so, it is straightforward but definitely requires removing the front fascia. Since large parts of it are in exposed locations and your old one was grimy, some of the connector latches are likely to be stuck and won't come loose with thumb pressure. That's usually a result of grit underneath the latch, so having some PB Blaster or WD40 on hand to spray the latches will help a lot. So will having a pair of 6" channeloks to put extra pressure on the latch tongues for really stubborn ones. Since the old harness will be discarded, having a canted prybar with a sharpened lip plus a small hand sledge will let you snap most of the oval-shaped wire restraints cleanly instead of prying them out. That's important where they're into plastic such that the back side of the restraint can't be reached to pinch the pawls, like on the fan shroud. Where you can reach the back, having straight and canted needle nose pliers will make pinching the pawls much easier. Lastly, when inserting the new connectors, listen for the click. It's something I harp on with rookies, "No click, no good." Nothing is more frustrating than pulling things apart a month after doing a job because an un-seated connector worked itself loose. When there's no audible or palpable click, 95 times in 100 it means the latch isn't latched.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I presume what you're replacing is the Front End Module Harness 24023-3TA0C? If so, it is straightforward but definitely requires removing the front fascia. Since large parts of it are in exposed locations and your old one was grimy, some of the connector latches are likely to be stuck and won't come loose with thumb pressure. That's usually a result of grit underneath the latch, so having some PB Blaster or WD40 on hand to spray the latches will help a lot. So will having a pair of 6" channeloks to put extra pressure on the latch tongues for really stubborn ones. Since the old harness will be discarded, having a canted prybar with a sharpened lip plus a small hand sledge will let you snap most of the oval-shaped wire restraints cleanly instead of prying them out. That's important where they're into plastic such that the back side of the restraint can't be reached to pinch the pawls, like on the fan shroud. Where you can reach the back, having straight and canted needle nose pliers will make pinching the pawls much easier. Lastly, when inserting the new connectors, listen for the click. It's something I harp on with rookies, "No click, no good." Nothing is more frustrating than pulling things apart a month after doing a job because an un-seated connector worked itself loose. When there's no audible or palpable click, 95 times in 100 it means the latch isn't latched.
Yes, that's the one. Thank you. That was very helpful!
 

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You're most welcome, good luck with it. One other thing, anyplace you have a complicated routing (like at the IPDM box), take pics before taking it apart. Makes sorting out the replacement much easier.
 
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