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Slow acceleration

1277 Views 71 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  VStar650CL
08 Altima 2.5s, recently installed used engine and trans...TCM from original car but TCM reprogrammed and car ran fine. ECM from original car. New valve cover, new cat and 02 sensors.

Driven a few hundred miles now and no codes yet BUT after it gets to operating temp, acceleration from dead stop is super slow, almost non existent and then all of a sudden it gets up and goes. If I put it in park and try to Rev engine, it does so suuuper slowly. If I turn off the car and turn right back on acceleration is fine for a while and then repeats. Brake lights not on when it happens so I don't think it's the brake sensor that other have experienced.

Throttle body? Intake system? Other Ideas?

Anything is much appreciated!
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That sounds awfully much like the tranny is overheating. I think you really need to get a peek at the temperatures this thing is running when it acts up.
That sounds awfully much like the tranny is overheating. I think you really need to get a peek at the temperatures this thing is running when it acts up.
Any tips on a Hayden cooler install? I've seen a couple vids but done differently..

Looks like one hose on Hayden goes to bottom of radiator just above lower radiator hose, and the other hose on Hayden goes back to the transmission. Does it matter which side of the Hayden hook ups?
The Hayden doesn't have a polarity but the car does, the outlet is the hose going to the bottom fitting on the radiator. The Hayden will work better if mounted sideways than vertically. You should redirect the hose going to the lower radiator port to the lower port on the cooler instead, the upper hose on the cooler back to the lower radiator port, and leave the upper hose from the radiator to the tranny completely alone.
Well, let me amend that. Open coolers like the Hayden 512 don't have a polarity, some others have thermostatic bypass valves built in and those do have a polarity. I used to recommend those but I don't anymore, most of them have a crack temperature to high to do much good (180F), especially for a tranny like yours which we already know may have issues. If you live in a cold climate and need a bypass, a couple of companies make 160F's or you can steal the cooler out of an R52 Pathfinder in the junkyard, those crack at 140F.
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Well, let me amend that. Open coolers like the Hayden 512 don't have a polarity, some others have thermostatic bypass valves built in and those do have a polarity. I used to recommend those but I don't anymore, most of them have a crack temperature to high to do much good (180F), especially for a tranny like yours which we already know may have issues. If you live in a cold climate and need a bypass, a couple of companies make 160F's or you can steal the cooler out of an R52 Pathfinder in the junkyard, those crack at 140F.
I was looking at the Hayden 676, saw a vid of someone installing that on my same car.

so you're saying like this?
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Understood! Thank you!

Right now there is nissan fluid, if I need to top off after this install, would it hurt to mix in something other than nissan?
From personal experience I can only speak for Eneos, AMSoil, Idemitsu, and Valvoline, all of those are completely miscible with NS2/NS3. I expect the other name brands would all be miscible too, since the only way to completely drain most CVT's is to remove it and crack the case.
From personal experience I can only speak for Eneos, AMSoil, Idemitsu, and Valvoline, all of those are completely miscible with NS2/NS3. I expect the other name brands would all be miscible too, since the only way to completely drain most CVT's is to remove it and crack the case.
So I installed the cooler, still acted up. Guess I'm ready to be done with it. One last thing, when it goes into this no throttle response and doesn't rev up at all, wouldn't putting into neutral free the transmission and then let the engine rev? Or is the trans keeping it from revving up?
No, the tranny shouldn't affect it in neutral. If it won't rev in N then I'm pretty sure the trans won't be the cause.
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No, the tranny shouldn't affect it in neutral. If it won't rev in N then I'm pretty sure the trans won't be the cause.
Any other ideas on the culprit? Everything I can think of has been done, cat replaced, fuel pump replaced, new maf, tcm reprogram, throttle relearn... the only other thing that hasn't been replaced is throttle body but it was cleaned. I know I still have those tranny codes, but given it does this in neutral too was just trying to rule everything out
The TB is a possibility if it's sticking. The only way to catch that in the act is to stream the APP sensors and TP sensors to see if they stop corresponding when the problem occurs. I don't think you're going to have much luck throwing more parts at it without some good diag tools to see what the ECM and TCM are thinking. Torque Pro or NDS-III along with CVTz50 would probably give you everything you need, but without the ability to pick some electronic brains, it could just get more expensive with no better answers.
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