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http://www.facebook.com/markspecv.markracerx

Here is MarkspecV's facebook page. I don't have his email address, maybe someone can post it up for me. Mark includes everything you need including spacers and will help you in any way possible.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Well, the head is off! It's still not entirely clear to me how the oil is getting into the cylinders. The valves were all wet and coated in oil (see pictures), so were the top of the pistons. The cylinder walls look great with no scoring of any kind, and there is just a very slight ridge near the top as expected with 100k miles.
Oversize pistons are readily available, so I'm just going to have the head redone, bore out the cylinders .010" over, install new pistons, rings, main and rod bearings, new gaskets, new timing chain and guides, and call it a day.
 

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Discussion starter · #25 ·
If you have white smoke it could be a blowed head gasket too .
Head gasket was intact. It was definitely oil being burned through the rings.

I found some grayish paste on the entire bottom of the oil pan, about 1/8" thick, and it was also coated on the oil pickup screen and tube, which is consistent in color to the catalytic converter material, which I already hollowed out.

I found 20 over pistons, so I'm going that route. I'll post some pics when I get the block and head back from the machine shop.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I Finally got the engine back from the machine shop.:p

I had it bored out and honed. The head was checked for cracks, had it resurfaced and put new valve seals in it.
I bought new .020"-over pistons, new main and rod bearings (std size), new head gasket set.
I will start putting it back together tomorrow. I'll post some pics then.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
What I still don't understand is how could the catalyst material get sucked back into the engine, if this engine does not have an EGR system. Once the exhaust leaves the block and goes through the cat, it does not get reintroduced into the engine.
Can anyone explain this?
 
From BITOG

The cat (converter) is right off the cylinder head almost, when you let off on the gas you get high vacuum in which some of the exhaust gasses go back into the engine, more typical on manual transmission cars because of the driving nature... The cat (converter) junk scores up the cylinder walls and can cause big time oil consumption.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Has anyone reused their head bolts? The manual says to check the diameter of the shanks, if they are too thin they should be discarded. The way they are installed, is to stretch them. :confused:
I think I'll just buy a new set to be on the safe side. ;)

I put the new bearings in last night. I'm working on the pistons and piston rings now.
 
Go with ARP studs-bolts , are you the one that want to have some Cosworth internals Nojodas !
 
Cosworth cams , pistons , crank , connecting rods , etc , it must not be you then , sorry about it , ARP bolts , studs , i ll give the links shortly '

Here s the link for Cosworth ; http://americas.cosworth.com/automotive/performance-aftermarket/

& for ARP : http://arp-bolts.com/

Top quality products .

Hope it will help you there . Cosworth s a bit overkill , if you have access to a machinist he can check the bolts , & / or nuts for you if they re still good , I mean if they re not too stretched , but almost no one check them .
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Discussion starter · #38 ·
It must have cost a fortune for the engine prep
fortune? not really. Machine shop bill was $368, all parts were about $350; I'm doing the labor myself.
The least expensive USED engine I found was about $1200 (with 90k miles) plus tax with only a 90 day guarantee. Who's to say the same problem has not already started with any used engine.

Rebuilding the original engine made the most sense to me and at a lower cost than a used one. This way I have the reassurance of doing it myself and making sure it's done right. I will practically end up with a "new" engine.:p
 
True , next year i ll buy another engine as a spare , as well as another tranny too . You re saving allot by doing it yourself , I taught you had it rebuilt .
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Ok. I got the crankshaft installed and main caps torqued to spec; new pistons have new rings on, and ready to be pressed into the cylinders. I have to wait for the new head bolts to arrive before I can put the head back on, so right now I can't go any further.
 

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