[Adamoctober]

Mine flares 1-2 on a somewhat cold motor/coolish day every single time.

Hmmm...... When was the last time the fluid was replaced? Ive never tried this and don't know if it will help, but....... Matic K has pretty much the same characteristics as Matic D, only with a crapload more friction material. K is used in the 5 speed automatic mated to the 3.5L. The added friction material in the K should be enough to prevent the flare. But like I said. This is kinda a gamble, but I think the odds will be pretty favorable tho.

 

[Kyle]

^No clue when or if it was replaced. Got the car when it had 122kmiles, 138k now

 

[QCaltima1328]

lol well like i said I flush all my cars, so ill let you guys if it messes up, my transmission doesnt flare or anything.. Shifts fine.. I FLUSHED it and didnt use Nissan trans fluid lol so we will see. As of right now 26K on trans fluid. Gonna flush it in 5k miles.

 

[Serbius]

I am wondering how important it is to use Matic D specifically. My 06 2.5 is going to get a flush when I hit 50k my next oil change. The dealership I work at [not nissan] has BG Universal Synthetic ATF that says it will work for Matic J/K; I am just wondering if that is ok to use?

 

[EdWill86]

basically the deal is use NON-Nissan ATF at your own risk. and FLUSH the trans at your own risk.

I had my 06 2.5 drain and filled at 50k with nissan atf and I dont have any issues. about to have it done again next month since i just hit 90k. with such a vital and expensive part to have fail Im not going to try and save a buck then have something happen because i tried to cheap out. not worth the risk imo.

 

[mikejamesbyma]

You mention J/K does the fluid you're enquiring about not mention D? If it doesn't, don't use it. There are universal synthetics out there that cover all three.

 

[Danny]

So do a drain and fill and use Nissan ATF. Go to the dealer to have it done. That is what I got as the best and safest route to take.

Also I dont trust JiffyLube. After quite a few news reports of their mechanics doing nothing at all and saying they did something, I decided to avoid those guys. I kind of figure others are doing it as well.

 

[Kyle]

My fluid looks perfect color wise but I have no clue when the last time it was serviced, think I should change it soon?

 

[Serbius]

You mention J/K does the fluid you're enquiring about not mention D? If it doesn't, don't use it. There are universal synthetics out there that cover all three.

It does not. There's a paragraph of other makes/types it covers but D isn't listed; which I is why I asked.

 

[Storm88000]

Just wanted to add since unless you have the FSM this is really hard to find online (at least for me it was) but to remove the auto-trans drain plug, at least for the 3.5 V6, is a 10mm hex socket. You could try an big allen wrench but don't think you'll get enough torque. Also, hit the plug w/ a few shots of WD-40 or PB blaster about a half hour before you do it.

At first the old fluid comes GUSHING out, will get on your hands etc. but then starts to slow down and now, after a half hour, is a slow trickle. (doing it now)

 

[Zachthemach]

Same problem

I'm having the same problem with my 06 Nissan Altima SE-R 106,000 miles. You have to wait for it to change gears if it's in reverse to be able to shift it into drive or it shifts very hard. The RPM's have been randomly revving up. It shifts very hard in 1st and 2nd. Also when you are coming to a stop and you let off the gas it hesitates for a second. All signs point to transmission, but I have been reading articles about the transmission solenoid, and fluid change. I don't know what to do without a check engine light. I don't know if I trust anyone to mess with my car. I traded my old car in for this one because the transmission was messed up on it....now this with my new car.

 

[Storm88000]

Change the fluid. Go to your local Nissan dealer and buy at least 4 quarts of K-matic ATF fluid. About $10 each. Then drain it overnight (again, 10mm hex socket on driver's side of the transmission) and measure how much comes out, replace drain plug, and try to pour about that same amount back in up in the engine bay where the ATF dipstick is. When I did mine, just about 3.8 quarts came out of the old stuff and I let it drain for about 2 days.

I also plan on doing it all over again in about 2k miles when I'm due for my next oil change. Another tip: I'm not sure where you live, but if the temperature drops below say 25 degrees, let the engine warm up before moving it out of park. I've found the hardest automatic shifts are when the car is cold (fluid probably is cold too and not coating what it should be).

See if that helps your problem, I bet it does, unless you've done mechanical damage.

 

[Penguinchit]

Just buy 7 quarts in one shot and change all the fluid at one time. Cheaper and takes less time.

Drain
Fill
Run through the shifter (don't let go of the brakes)
Drain
Fill

Running through the shifter will flush most of the old stuff out of the torque converter. You'll put red in and after shifting, you'll see brown come out. Won't get it all, but it'll get most. And it's better than mixing new and old and then draining it and mixing more new with old.

 

[Storm88000]

Here's what I did/am doing: I drained it into a pan that holds 6 quarts, and about 3.8 quarts came out. I replaced it with just about 4 quarts of the K-matic fluid. This was 2,000 miles ago. I JUST got in from the Nissan dealer where I picked up 4 more quarts of the K-matic fluid, where in another 2k miles or so I plan on draining the fluid AGAIN and replacing it with more fresh K-matic I got today while I'm doing my upcoming oil change.

So I'll be doing kind of a semi-flush in a natural way, by draining it and replacing it for the second time after driving 4,000 miles on the first batch of fresh fluid. I don't think this is entirely necessary to do but I noticed a positive change in the transmission shifting IMMEDIATELY, and hopefully the current fluid will pull some more gunk outta there when I drain it.

 

[novelist]

Also when you are coming to a stop and you let off the gas it hesitates for a second.

- This is usually caused by a sticky auto idle control valve that needs cleaning.